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The feed and expansion tank is going to get warm which will turn to condensation when it hits the cold lid (if that's what you mean by polystyrene cover). Has the lid got a good fit on the tank? Is the water in the f/e tank boiling hot?

I'm tempted to give this a try as it seems easier than sanding. See if I can get a cheap steam cleaner then use a wallpaper scraper? Or a hamilton scraper?

Cheers, I like their advice on 'remove loose material back to a firm edge' without any advice on how to achieve it. And what's this primer paint? Is it very thick?

The bubbles keep appearing all over the place though, which is why sanding the current bubbles is a waste of time as they'll only appear elsewhere.

You reckon I could do the whole wall with a cork sanding block and some 40 grit paper? It's about 3 metres wide and 2.4 tall, and I gave the wall a couple of coats so there's a lot of paint to sand off. Wouldn't I drown in the dust? I agree damp must be getting into the wall somehow, drying...

The wall is dry alright. I did it over a year and a half ago! Basically I need to get the whole layer of paint off the wall. Bubbles are appearing anywhere and everywhere so just sanding each one off is a fruitless task. Am I looking at sanding the whole lot? Paintstripper? Can it be peeled...

Sparkwright, thanks for the response. There was nothing particularly remarkable about the wall before I painted it. As I say, the other 3 walls have caused no problems. All of the paint is going to have to come off. I won't be able to just sand off the bubbles, the reason being, you can...

About 18 months ago when I first moved into ny house I painted one room with dulux silk. The paint already on the wall was matt. 3 of the 4 walls were no problem at all, but one bubbled up badly, it was as if the paint just wouldn't stick to it. Wishful thinking I thought it might dry out and...

Interesting you say the socket marks the route of the cable as one of the sockets is below a condensing system boiler. If I follow the line of the socket directly upwards its practically in line with the boiler flue, so goodness knows what route it takes. I'm planning on getting a combi...

I plan on getting a new boiler installed in the coming months in my kitchen. Due to its location, a couple of exisitng sockets will need to be moved slightly. I've read that adding new sockets in a kitchen will require a consumer unit with RCD protection, however, will just moving 2 existing...

I know what you're saying as I thought this myself at first, but it does state (and illustrate) that the hose must be no less than 40cm above ground level. Seems to be a Beko thing as I've read a few other manufacturers manuals and they don't state it. The standpipe is about 80cm off the ground...

I've just got a new washing machine and it states that the drain hose should be routed a minimum of 40cm off floor level. My standpipe is directly behind the machine (offset to the left). The drain hose exits the machine at the top back right of the machine, so with it looped downwards and back...

That 1st link just goes to a yahoo page. Anyway... if you havent changed the wiring, then you will need to set the new programmer to the same as the old one (i.e. gravity fed jumper on the back of the programmer) or else it wont work. Just changing the jumper to fully pumped won't give you CH...

Thanks again. Couple of questions - how do I know if the old one has been overly compressed? And as for the new valve, they all seem to be 15mm x 3/4 - I presume the 15mm is the pipe end and the 3/4 end is for where the washing machine hose threads onto. I take it you can no longer get...

Out of interest, are you going down the plastic or copper route for the new system?

It does indeed look to be the only half decent one that joe public can get. In terms of getting the old one off... I guess the olive will likely be well stuck in place. Can you reuse it and the old nut, or do you need to carefully remove the old olive. If so, any tips?