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Try the Tiling Forum, you're more likely to get an informed answer there!

Hi AA and welcome. Firstly ensure that you have removed all the wallpaper paste or you'll have probs with your emulsion. Give it a wash down and use a scraper to remove any remaining paste. You can't assume that the plaster is sealed, I would suggest giving it a mist coat first to be sure...

Personally I use 1400 as standard, 1700 is like cardboard and can be difficult to hang (don't skimp on the soaking time) - and IMO if the wall is bad enough to need 1700 it needs more prep! Some folk suggest that the heavier lining papers have a slight texture to them - personally I've not...

Easifil for everything. Deep holes - I use Carlite to bring up to about 1mm short of finish level once its tightened up, just skim over with Easifil. Only problem with Carlite you can only get it in enormous bags which usually last me a year!

Leewill, I would be wary of using caulk in this situation, it will be very difficult to fill evenly enough that it doesn't show when painted. You could end up with either a smooth effect at every seam or possibly rough tags, either one would look awful and you wouldn't be able to repair any...

Are you planning to emulsion the paper? if so, a couple of coats should hide the seams - they always look worse than they are and its amazing how a bit of emulsion covers them up.

Its perfectly OK to to minor tweaks after your mist coat - in fact sometimes its the only way to go! Easifil and sand until you're happy with the surface. However, to avoid any problems, I would just touch up the newly filled areas with a mist coat before you start on the next coats

Why not get a suitable hard wearing paint made up to match the emulsion? (Personally I like eggeshell), if you go to Leyland/Dulux Trade centre/Crown trade - they all have colour match systems and will be able to make up an exact match for you.

The walls were obviously not sealed prior to painting, the plaster is hygroscopic so it sucked all the moisture out of the emulsion very quickly leaving the solids behind on the surface not bound properly to the wall - this can happen with vinyl and matt. The subsequent coats of paint were just...

Sounds OK, though personally I wouldn't dilute the gloss, if its too thin you're more than likely to have problems with runs. Trade gloss tends to be a lot thinner than the sheds.

Sorry about the delay, been working away this week. As long as your screws are just below the surface of the plasterboard and haven't torn the paper or gone in too deep, you'll be OK. Just a quick fill with your joint filler and a sand - no probs. If you ever get a screw that does pop...

Aye, and after all that dosh they still turn out c**p! Did a simple dogleg stud wall & two doors to make an extra bedroom for a bloke, I picked out 5 errors on the drawings within a couple of minutes and couple during construction. Told client to get back to Architect to correct as I didn't...

Just throw in my six pennorth: Recently fitted a flat-pack kitchen, clients got the whole lot from MFI. Firstly: quality was poor to say the least, most of the fittings going into cheapo woodchip felt very fragile and in some cases pulled out without any undue pressure, most of the screwing...

Aye, thats the only problem with gloss, takes a while to harden up enough to sand. If you're using oilbased eggshell (internally), it hardens up much quicker and you can generally denib the next day.

I think your roller head is probably whats causing you grief, its not holding enough paint. You should't have to apply any great pressure to squeeze the paint out of the roller and onto the wall and you should be getting more coverage than you are per refill. Also the paint, you say you...

You may get a slight difference in finish - much more likely with a silk, but matt should be OK. General routine is cut in the ceiling then paint, then cut in each wall individually and paint them. A lot depends on the paint so its not a hard and fast rule, just see what the first coat comes...

Never heard of sanding between emulsion coats, undercoats yes, but unless you've got a load of grit in your paint doesn't need it! Try more paint on your roller - see your other thread.

Grey side facing out and the brownish side to the joists. If you look carefully, you should have a slightly feathered edge on the long sides, when these butt up together they form a slight dip so when you fill over the tape it comes flush - makes it a lot easier on the long runs. I use...

The 18" roller certainly helps, but he's still covering the same area per refill as I would with a 9" - just quicker! I think a lot of folk when they're starting up don't get enough paint on the roller and are consequently scrubbing away at a small area - you can really load up a roller...

Your plan sounds OK. Personally I wouldn't touch the non-drip gloss, go for a normal gloss and, if there is a lot of flat area, put it on with a roller - a 4" foam could do it, but if you can find the 4" mohair rollers you get a much better finish, roll on a couple of sq ft at a time and lay...