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Mist and two coats is the norm. Very occasionally you can get away with 2 coats, but not often. Basically, if you're happy with the finish after 2nd coat no probs but you will find the third coat gives it a bit more "depth" and you have to put coat 2 on very well to get a decent finish.

I'd say yes, your mist-coat is much thinner so it soaks in well and you're unlikely to get big lumps of paint unless you're really sloshing it about. Mist coats normally look awful anyway and it can be a worry that the finish won't look too good - just wait till you get the next coat on and you...

Vinyl silk will go straight over matt no probs - (but not the other way round). You'll need at least two coats as the first tends to soak in and you won't get a completely smooth finish, also worth diluting by about 10% which will help reduce roller marks. First coat will probably take twice...

By 'eck JohnD - haven't seen her in years, ageing about as well as me!She covered a soup stain on my wall for a number of years as a student......... ah happy days! Spadez: I wouldn't risk sanding the anaglypta, in fact I wouldn't agitate it at all if theres the possibility of plaster...

You're creating a whole load of hassle for yourself - Forget the Artex! If you can get a smooth finish with Artex you'll do it far quicker and easier with plaster and you'll be able to paint within a few days - Artex has got a very long drying time. Taking it a stage further, tape & fill is...

Hi HJ and welcome. Also before I even started painting some small parts of the old paint had flaked off - it was only decorated 4 years ago by the builder when the house was built. I think this is the clue to your problem - from the sound of it the plaster wasn't sealed prior to painting...

Sorry, took me a while to twig, I had visions of a very long thin freezer! Ditto confidentincompetent, you could try a plastering trowel as it has a longer edge and I think you get more control with the handle.

I use 1400 as standard, if it needs 1700 it needs more prep (and its like cardboard, not so easy to handle)! You can also get quad rolls of lining paper, if you decide to cross-line (fewer runs, fewer cuts, fewer joins to match up) it makes sense as the long walls will make a mess of the old...

Its really a matter of personal taste, but I think it breaks up the room a bit and you don't have a solid block of colour, also if the timber is done well can make a really nice feature. Done a lot of doors like this and never felt it was out of place.

Sorry, can't agree with Chunky, PVA has no place in preparation for decorating (I can see the old PVA debate starting all over again!). 2 coats of primer/undercoat should be fine for what you're wanting. To be on the safe side you could dilute your first emulsion coat by about 10% but I...

Welcome to the forum. Ditto leeco, I do a lot of this sort of restoration and use Gyproc Easifil (but probably can't get it in small enough quantities for you requirements), but Polyfilla will be OK. Fill it quite proud and just work away sanding it to shape, you may need to fill again to get...

Just slip a sheet of lining paper under the bottom of the door and you can splash away nae probs. Normally you'd prime, fill, 1 or 2 undercoats and 1-2 gloss/satin/eggshell. If you want to keep the grainy feel to them, minimise the undercoats as this is what fills up the grain for a...

Just finished a nightmare job with exactly the same problem. Went down the ZIN BIN route but this created a few more probs. The emulsion took twice as long to dry over the touched up areas and, probably due to the slow drying time, these areas came up flat whereas the rest of the walls had a...

Hi, and welcome. You can just paint away, I've never had any problems just going in with emulsion. However, if you have a very thick emulsion you may want to just dilute the first coat by about 10% and use a medium pile roller to get the paint into all the knobbly bits - enjoy!

And welcome to the forum!

Sorry to state the obvious, depends if you want them painted or stained! Either way your prep is critical, the painted part is not too bad but woodstain is difficult to get anything to stick. So big sand to get as much of previous material off as possible and get a smooth surface to work...

Oh, and welcome to the forum!

Nae probs with your plan, personally I like to undercoat regardless, ensures a good key and flattens out your surface for a better finish. I would go for the oil-based top coat, acrylics are notoriously difficult to get an even finish if you haven't used them before as they tend to show up every...

If you're worried about heat, have you looked at some of the paints for car exhaust systems? Seen this recommended before for high temp areas - not a clue on prep though, these paints are OK on metal, but theres not a lot that will stick well to tiles. You could try testing on an old tile...

When you re-painted did you use a mist coat (40%water/non-vinyl emulsion) or a plaster sealer? Apart from your condensation problem, it sounds like the plaster is dry, what with the artex and subsequent paint falling off. New builds are notorious for not sealing plaster, especially where artex...