Search results

Very rough guide: 45mins each cutting in and emulsion walls & ceiling 30 mins prep woodwork 60 mins for skirtings & architrave 20 mins per side per door That gives you approx 4 hours per emulsion coat and another for woodwork plus prep time (assuming theres no filling needed)...

And yes, it is a good tip to lightly sand over with a 200 grit paper, especially if you are going for a gloss finish.

Painting over varnished wood you'll need to take it back to timber completely to prevent the paint coming off - you'll need a couple of weeks to spare and an overdeveloped attention-span! However, if you sand back to provide a key and give it a coat of Zinsser BIN, you can then undercoat and...

You're looking at minimum two days and thats only if the walls are in good nick and they're well experienced at hanging paper, also you don't mention if they're doing the woodwork. Price-wise its only just on the borderline for me and I'm in N.E. Scotland. Take the offer!

Lots of variables: What state are the walls & woodwork How many doors Type of windows - sash/multipane/single pane Are the residents smokers What area are you working in What paints do you intend to use Are they "clients" or is it "mates-rates Give us a clue and we may be able to...

Robson - You're not alone, had the same problem myself, over a period my ceilings just went to rats. In retrospect I was a) using a thicker emulsion and b) touching up as I went while still wet. Picked up that tip about diluting about a year ago and everything miraculously sorted itself.

Ditto Joe-90, I work on a lot of 1800's buldings in Montrose and have never had any probs with plaster.......... painting wise that is! Some of the old lath & plaster can be a pain to prep though, what with decades of cobbled repairs, once you're through a very elderly finish coat and hit...

I work on a lot of older houses and have occasionally had to fit new sections of dado rail. As stated, joiners will charge the earth to set up and its just not worth it for a couple of metres. Older dado (and a lot of ornate coving) is mostly made up from different profiles of laths and bead...

Aqupanel is the real deal on this one, however, green plasterboard is adequate if your tilings good.

The 4" mohair rollers give a brilliant finish with oilbase, but never used them with waterbase so its probably not a lot of help! (And you still have to cut in the edges).

Polystyrene coving has to be put up with a non-solvent adhesive like No More Nails - if you have lumps of adhesive left after scraping, you could try warm water or possibly steaming. My parrot just goes for mobile phones, TV dibbers and my fag papers!

Ditto DSD, If your walls are well prepared you could get away without L/P, but L/P will sort out any minor imperfections and give you a really good base to work on, if its a very light finish paper or has a slight sheen to it, any irregularities will show through. Be careful with your joins...

Oops - forgot to mention that!

Yes, 90 degrees to existing is a lot easier and you can get the new joists exactly where you want them - big help when you're going from imperial to metric in older buildings. I don't see any need for joist hangers unless you're droppping the ceiling in which case you're in a whole different...

Your first mist coat should be adequate for papering. If you've got a good finish on the new plasterwork I wouldn't bother lining unless its a very fine finish paper you're using. If you ever want to strip the paper it'll go back to the mist coat layer so in this case lining is irrelevant...

Just go over everything, Plasterboard, joins & coving with your mist coat (20% water:emulsion), won't do any harm, takes very little time & materials and you know then that your final coats won't fall off!

Went OK............ apart from half the wall coming down 'cos the previous skim had blown! - back later in the week to get the other half finished when the plaster is dry. Turning the tile over, there is a very fine straight edge about 0.5mm thick moulded around the back of the tile so, as...

Looks good, I'll have to remember this one

Hope I'm not too late! Go very carefully and use a really light glasspaper - If its the plaster coving its very easy to damage the paper surface and once you get tears in that they are very difficult to hide, ditto the paper covered polystyrene cove. And with the general polystyrene coves the...

Thanks for all that, some useful stuff. A keen eye and a steady hand - not a lot of that around on a Monday morning but we'll give it a bash!