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OK, no problem, you can do it two ways, screw up plasterboard to the existing joists or strap up timber suppports to the existing joists and put your plasterboard onto that (this will give you a small cavity above the new ceiling)- you don't need to take your ceiling down! Use 12.5mm...

Just when I thought Monday was going to be a nice quiet day putting up a 3 course splashback in a kitchen, I saw the tiles this wifie wants me to put up - I've never seen anything like it! The "Country Kitchen Wall Tile" from B&Q, (I have posted a link but don't know if it will work - the...

And me!

Ouch! thats some size of hole! Is it laminate or solid wood flooring laid over the existing flooring? If so I would cut an insert of the original material and slot it in behind the pipe it will be supported by the the existing floor. You'll then have a clearance of about 5-10mm all round the...

Relatively straightforward, but is there any particular reason you want to drop the height of the ceiling? If you drop it below the standard 2.4M, you may fall foul of building regs (but they seem to be different in Scotland so I may be wrong) Are they cavity walls? Dimensions of kitchen?

Yes there are seals, but the good ones need to be fitted before the tiles - so not a lot of use to you and the post-fit ones that I've come across look really naff. Sorry, not a lot of help - be gentle on the old man, we all had to start somewhere!

Keep at it - it'll look lovely when its finished!

Bearing in mind I'm not a spark: Be warned, just because the switch is off doesn't mean you don't have live wires. The ideal solution is to isolate the circuit which means tracing wires back to the lighting main and removing the offending cable from the junction box - somewhere in the...

Can't recommend any particular gloss, but, as always, its down to preparation. The more attention you pay to detail and getting your surfaces absolutely flat the smoother the finish and consequently the shinier your door will look - stating the bleedin' obvious I know, but it works!

Need to clarify a couple of points: Are they cavity walls? Are the back boxes, white plastic cavity boxes or metal ones? You say the cables are terminated - have they been taken off the circuit or just chocolate blocks wrapped up in insulating tape? May be able to help but need to...

You can get hardboard faced with vinyl, only available in white as far as I know, pretty durable , satin sort of finish, would only mean you have to worry about the eges which could be painted prior to fitting, I don't think you're going to manage iron-on onto a 3mm edge! If you went down...

Thanks guys, been doing this for years (with great long-lasting results) but always thought I may be pushing my luck - obviously not.

Thanks Big Vern, didn't know that. Australia? not me, alive and kicking (just!) in Montrose. rtedge - not being flippant, but couldn't you just hang a picture or position a houseplant over the offending hole until you're ready to do the lot?

It also helps (if the paint hasn't fully cured and is still a bit flexible) to run the blade carefully along the glass/timber border as near 90 deg to the glass as you can, then put the blade flat on the glass and scrape away - this stops the paint runkling up and gives you a nice clean line...

Flow is can be a real problem and I had a lot of problems when I started up a few years ago, particularly ceilings. However, I sorted it with adding a small amount of water to the finish coat - approx 50ml to 2.5L, just enough to give a continuous wet edge without reducing coverage. (yes I know...

Sorry, for some reason I got a smiley - that sould read £8

And don't forget to go over first with a mist coat, I know its a smallish area, but it will still suck all the moisture out of the new paint and it'll fall off! Just mix up 30%water to paint and leave for a couple of hours before you do the final coat. However hard you work on a colour match...

Ditto JohnD - steer clear of PVA! Drying depend on what sort of plastering you've had done, if its simply dry-lined you could start decorating next day, if its skimmed you're looking at a week and if its full depth on solid wall anything up to three weeks - I would imagine repeated steaming...

You don't say whether its Plaster-on-Hard or Plasterboard, if its the latter you could end up with a lot of damage which would require at least lining paper or worst case a skim. Assuming its plaster and its in realtively good condition I wouldn't worry overmuch about the odd nick with a...

Aye, you're probably right Joe90 - you can lead a painter to L/P but you cannae make him hang it! (sigh)