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sounds a bit overkill to me. if you want to use those blocks thats fine.i would put a bar every 450mm(to suit block runs)embedded in the foundation as you mention.theres no need for the pier on the back of the wall.then fill with concrete.

i would think there water shouldnt run onto your property. is the boundary in the centre of the ridge line???

cant really see too much from those photos but i wouldnt panic about the wall falling down.however,before dry walling you may wanna get a new lintel installed in place of the timber and give it 150mm bearing each end.even if you remove the timber the worst that will happen is an odd brick drop...

cant see a pic. that price seems steep to me cos id probably do a small roof repair off a ridge ladder or just walk up the roof,sldiing up tiles to get a footing on the battens.

both but not over the cavity,if you have one

ive never left a gap and had no problems but im sure the purists will say,yes,leave a gap.if the worktops are secured securely there shouldnt be a problem.

or do what richard suggests and slide 2 battens into the whole,screw through the exisiting p.board into the battens,then screw the new p.board into the battens.

do you squeek when you walk :lol: :lol:

kinell,do people still polish shoes????

yorkie aint an aero. i would never make paving slabs.you need a very strong mix.

yell.com local timber suppliers or builders merchants and haggle.

while in jewson yesterday i saw a new product,to me at least,plasterboard patch's.ive never used them so dont know how good they are but you could look into them. the other option is,the old faithful,expanding foam.

you should run a bead of silicone on the back top edge of the cill before screwing it to the door frame. not too sure about the infills,is there drainage at the bottom if any water got into the void?

chocolate or mint???

battening under a rafter doesnt increase its strength,it add to the weight.a few builders dont weigh as much as a ton or 2 of snow/ice. a bit odd you call in the BCO for advice and then dont like what you hear????.

they do internal rising butts,not sure if they do external grade ones tho.

1:40 is the correct fall of a 100mm pipe and you can go less but be careful not to get any bumps in the run which is easily done if not familiar with laying plastic drains(assuming youre usint plastic).never heard of a 450mm min drop but i only hear about BR changes when i come across them as im...

well i reckon the bottom of the felt has rotted away and therefore the water is running short of the fascia and down your wall,a common problem and pretty simple to correct. remove 1 or 2 rows of tiles(depends on the pitch of the roof and tile batten spacings).cut back the defective...

what mix did you use ???

system restore??