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Thanks. We normally try & use soldered joints for anything which will later be inaccessible but I wasn't sure if could use it for the heating pipes. After your comment about the difficulty with the water though I think we'll prob go for compression joints as there'll be plenty of time to check...

Thanks for the advice - this is great website! Seeing as you're so helpful I have a follow-on query now I'm afraid. We've decided to just use the normal copper pipe & then join it to chrome plated just before it comes through the floorboards. I now just need to check how you would recommend...

Hi - we're replacing our bathroom radiator & moving it to the other side of the room. Is it best to use the normal copper plumbing pipe or the flexible piping? We're having a chrome towel radiator so ideally would prefer to have the visible part of the pipes above the floor in chrome too & we've...

My computer skills are slightly worse than my DIY skills, so no chance! It is Screwfix & everything else we've had from them has been spot on so I think we're just going to go for it. Thanks for all yor replies!

Hi - my 2nd time on here for some advice now! Our circular saw finally gave up the ghost last weekend (hardly surprising, my boyfriend's had it for over 5 years & his Dad had it for years before that & he bought it 2nd hand!) It's not something that we use an awful lot so we don't want to...

Thanks very much for that - we'll get cracking now.

Hi - my 1st time asking for help on this board, although I have used quite a few tips off it before! We're re-doing our bathroom & we now want to change where the new basin will be (before we lay the plywood floor prior to fitting the new suite), which means altering the location of the waste...

I tried your recommendation and it didn't work. I tried looking fthrough the forum to see a similar situation to no avail. Maybe I didn't explain the situation clearly. I'll try it again. I have a GFI and a combination single-pole switch in one box. The switch is to operate two seperate...

I would like to replace the kitchen sink waste (i.e. the plughole part) as it is leaking but cannot work out how to disconnect this from the kitchen sink. I bought a replacement that has a screw in the middle of the plughole but there is nothing like this in the existing plug-hole. Any ideas?

Yes, the other two wires are for the lights. You said that the live (hot) should go to the first switch. I am using a switch that has two switches, one switch above and one below the other. The type that has switches that go on and off from side to side, not up and down. When you say loop...

I have the situation when the dishwasher is draining the water the pipe it is connected to under the sink over flows. I end up with a lot of water under my sink - The unique this is that my dishwasher pipe that connects the two is just placed in the pipe connected to the sink - any thoughts on...

Conceivably, the return from the cylinder to the boiler is going via the rads, but the wrong way, i.e. rads not plumbed correctly. To check, when you turn on the hot water, do the rads start to get hot from the wrong side ( opposite side to when you have heating on)?

750mm deep to top of pipe minimum bed in sand

You could change your hot water cylinder and water storage tank for an unvented cylinder, which is mains fed. Cost you though.

If total privacy is not essential, don't use solid panels, go for something that will let the wind through. Work with the wind, not against it, and the fence will last a lot longer.

just turn it off then remove the outer nut, no water should escape from the spindle if the taps off. Can use ptfe rolled lengthwise to make suitable rope. then replace nut.

what did you do when you took the rad off?

Sounds like you have a primatic hot water cylinder. It has an internal air bubble for central heating expansion, and to keep central heating water separate from domestic hot water. Although the two waters are separate, you should not have an inhibitor!

just a quick one! you say you sealed up the old air brick, did this vent under the floor level or above? if it was below the floor level, you should un block it as it is there to help air circulate under your floor. if you blocked it up its just going to make things even worse and your floor...

just a quick tip or two if you are fixing timber doors and frame, make sure that the head is level..... then put a fixing top and bottom of each side.... dont fully tighten them yet! then hold your door inside the frame, it should touch all around without any gaps. if there are big gaps, undo...