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I have bought a new outside light that is plastic and has no earth terminal. It says it's double insulated. This new light is replacing a metal one that is earthed. It connects back to a junction box. This junction box also feeds another outside light, which is metal and earthed. Both switch...

It's a Volex VCU6. I'm not sure I understand what you mean though. Can't one of the two 16amp circuits just be disconnected and capped off? I don't think it was a DIY replacement as I'm pretty sure it it was done as part of the electrical works before we bought it. I have the paperwork but...

Thanks guys. If that is the case, what level of risk/danger is it? Big job for an electrician to fix?

All 3 sockets still work with either or both 16amp breaker on, and all 3 don't work when they are both off. By inside the sockets I meant after taking off the plates to have a look..... appears to be 2 separate circuits feeding each one. Why would this be done? Ps. Both are on the RCD.

Inside the sockets of the room, I'm not sure but they appear to be connected to two circuits. This would explain why there are two MCBs. Why would this be and what are the dangers?

Both are 16. Incidentally it's this (these) circuit(s) plug the lawnmower into in summer.... Some other things that seem a bit weird to me (logically at least as I'm no electrician): - One light circuit has just one light switch on it while another light circuit covers all upstairs, hallway...

I can see about 1mm of a 3rd core sticking out of the cable casing at the entrance to the light switch box. The other 2 cores are the live and neutral. The other switches on the same circuit are (seemingly?) earthed.

The light switches all have one cable in each box. Others on the same circuit and all switches on the other 2 lighting circuits have earth connected. The hall and landing, for some reason, have them snipped.

It is just one room but the room in question is a 1970s extension.

It's the latter. Both MCBs have to be off for the sockets not to work.

Thanks for the response. One of the things I want doing is a new outside light. I want two, so I was thinking I'd just split the existing spur with an exterior junction box but then I read that as they are metal cased and it would constitute a wiring change then it should now be RCD protected...

I want some work doing on my electrics but over the years of living here I've noticed a few issues with the set up and was hoping for views on how big the issues are in terms of safety and cost to resolve by an electrician. I can then get them to fix the issues alongside the extra work I want...

Just to add that, bizarrely, after the heating has been on the last hour and now cooled down again, pressure has dropped to 1.5. It will now rise to 3 slowly even though heating not in use. Can't understand why the pressure falls after heating on, although the PRV gushes like a tap!

I have an oldish combi boiler, non-condensing, Alpha CB 24x. Recently the pressure has been rising and the PRV leaking outside. Even with heating not in use it still rises to the max. Sometimes it drops back to midway and sometimes it remains at max pressure, without intervention either way...

Yeah I started putting them down when I realised some joists were lower or warped so luckily picked up on that one in time and put it right. It's just the slope at one end that's not draining fast enough and I know I'm going to have to lift a lot of boards to sort that now since, as you say...

I checked the end grains on a few boards and by chance, the shallower grooved side I chose for the top means they are bark side up. I thought this was the correct way and stopped cupping?

Not sure if this is what you mean but I used screws rather than nails and they're fairly close to the edges. If I tighten more they start to go straight through the woods. Option 2 sounds good but I still feel I need to correct the slope somehow. It was my first real project and a lot of...

Ok thanks. They were cheap as I shopped around for the best price but still chunky ones, not thin. I would guess they were machined randomly so cupping would occur on some whichever side I chose as the surface. Since I prefer the groove side and I can't reverse them anyway now (some cuts...

Oh... they were sold as reversible. The thicker grooves would still give ventilation under the boards meeting the joists. Some have cupped but less than a third I would say. Wouldn't the ones that haven't cupped now have cupped if installed the other way round? If this is the cause of my...

The deck boards are reversible, one side the usual deep grooves and the other side a shallower groove. I chose the shallower for ease of maintenance, e.g. leaves and debris.