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Because the areas that fell off allowed you to see that the there was a gap between the plaster and the wall, it all just came off by hand :shock: Next house we buy I'm going to go around the whole house with a toffee hammer to check how sound the plaster is and get money knocked off...

From a DIY point of view, I don't think I've ever seen plumbing that I thought looked good. No matter what it's made from I'd try my hardest to hide it all.

Hi, I've had a go at plastering and found it to be an absolute b*****d :? I was chasing the wall to lay the wiring into the plaster and each time I hit the plaster with the chisel lumps of plaster the size of saucers fell off! :evil: In the end I just removed all the plaster and wire...

The point was I suppose, is why knock a system such as plastic plumbing because of it's DIY nature when you are on a DIY forum. Instead help the person with their task in hand and leave the rants for dedicated threads. Personaly I'm in favour of plastic plumbing as it over came all the worries...

I think it can be plumbed into the u-bend in a similar manner as this picture shows But I'm not sure how much distance you need it to be below the sink waste point and above the u-bend. Take a look at these: http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/plumbing_in_a_washing_machine_or.htm...

I don't mean to be patronising, but have you got any fitting instructions with the unit? If not try the vitra website, they may just have been omitted in the warehouse when packing. :?

I've only been here (on the forum) for a short time and have so far found it very helpful however, after reading this post I'm starting to get a little confused (easily done when you know me) I came here thinking it was a DIY forum, but the discussion about plastic plumbing on this thread and...

I once tried to pass a guy on the right on my way to the Blackwall Tunnel, as I started to pull along side he moved over. I assumed he hadn't seen me, so dropped back and moved over to the left. He then swerved over to the left! If he had been a litte closer he would have had a bit dent in...

The transformers are JCC and so are the downlighters I think. I am lucky enough to work for a company that designs and has manufactures display equipment (I'm the designer) so we often use electrical parts in the displays. So I was able to get most of the electrical parts in the house...

Why? :?

if the applience waste is close enough to reach the sink waste trap you can splice it into the waste pipes there using one of these.

I had four downlights put in each of the bathroom and kitchen, I had four wired into one transformer. The transformer was only around £12 with the fire-rated downlights about £10 each. simon

Hi, The Rad valves are Danfoss RAS-C2 TRVs with lockshield, There is no towel rail on the system at the moment (barely a bathroom at present :shock: , but will be fitted soon along with bathroom suite). I used the drain cock on the flow\return loop to drain it before connecting into this...

Hi, I have had a Potterton Performa 24 HE eco (I think that's all about right :) ) installed by a CORGI Plumber. The heating flow and return were connected (forming a closed loop) ready for me to fit the CH. I have now done so using plastic plumbing and push fit connections. I have 4 rads...

I recently read somewhere, not sure where :shock: god I'm getting old now!, of a guy who put a damp proof membrane between the joists and the floor boards, this stopped the creaking at it offered a form of 'lubrication' to the mated surfaces. It does mean lifting the boards however. If care...

Would you not be best just working out the BTU\Watts needed for that room and buy a rad of that output instead of trying to work out it's output and hope you can get an effective conversion. Try DIYData

Try contaacting your gas\electricity supplier as they off subsidised loft insulation to their customers. Also try the Energy Savings Trust

if it's just temporary stop gap then forget about it and spend the money and time elsewhere until she's ready to swap it over. It'll look a mess and I've not heard of any paints for doing it with...mind, I've never even thought of looking :shock:

Just a thought, that tool looks like the blade has an abrasive edge that might score\scratch the tiles as well as remove any grout. At worst you could take a piece of wood and pass a screw partially through it. This would give you control over how deep you go and the width of the cut by...

Research, isn't that what he is doing now? Very helpful guys, good luck.