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You're aware that each RCD has it's own neutral bar? You don't have to pretend to be qualified/have equipment you know, the internet police won't find you. It just means you should get an electrician. I think i'm fairly competent on the basics, but when it comes to things I don't know/can't...

Is the neutral of your new circuit in the correct bar back at the CU? Incidentally, if you're going to pretend that you will run the proper tests, I think they're generally performed before you try switching it on.

Got your neutral going to the right bar?

I'd forget the oven and do the lights first. A fault on that circuit could very likely start a fire, and faults do happen. Please hire an electrician, I've got nothing more to say on this one.

I'm really not taking the **** when I tell you I think you need to consult an electrician for your own safety and that of your family. You'd probably be fine with the oven circuit, though it really should be properly tested using equipment you don't have, but 20A on a lighting circuit with 1mm...

Assuming it's all on properly sized cable.

:lol:

I suspect that won't be happening, which is no big deal if you get it right and a very bad thing if you get it wrong. If you really do plan to get it signed off on, getting someone to sign off on a job you've planned and executed before calling them in may well prove trickier than you expect...

First a hottub, now a hydraulic lift.. can't you shoot your adult film without the prop operational?

Well no, 5A overcurrent protection and 3A overcurrent protection aren't the same thing. 3 isn't 5. I doubt it would be a problem, they aren't going to send the fan installation inspectors round if you make a claim under warranty and it's not going to draw more than 3 amps unless a fault...

Five days ago, around midday, in Christchurch New Zealand, someone plugged two 3kW loads into one double outlet.

40A would be fine for a 41.5A cooker circuit with diversity taken into consideration. For a cooker it's 10A plus 30% of the remaining total load, plus 5 for the socket. You're well under forty. Earthed metal protection behind the skirting if it can't be avoided. You can't legally do this work...

Agreed, his responses on indicate he's a little unhinged.

But are you criticising the 'fundamentals' of climate science, or are you regurgitating verbatim bits of opinion pieces published in tabloids? There's a difference between forming an opinion of whether you like music or ballet, and forming an opinion on a body of scientific evidence. Or...

Let this be a lesson to all of us - it matters not how strong your legal case may be if the cowboy builder kills you and hides the body where the sun does not shine, which I presume is somewhere in Scotland.

I wouldn't say trying to turn it by hand is a thorough test of a motor, but you would expect to meet resistance followed by a sudden flick. But then, you'd find the same on a motor with dodgy contacts. I don't see how turning the motor by hand could tell you anything. If you can't find a...

Hurrah! Some dimmers rotate to switch on, others the turny button (technical term) pushes in, then just rotates to dim. But i'm sure you know how to operate a light switch.

Wouldn't work if it turned freely, it works by a rapid series of those flicks. Is there a short piece of hose connecting the pump to a plastic chamber, which then connects to the longer hose? If so check that short length.

I'd initially missed the switch being powered, but together we have solved the crime. Whoever pulled the ceiling down probably disturbed/damaged it, though who's to say it wasn't loose, or knocked out when the light fitting was taken down. If the job was done through a reputable builder with a...

So the switch line has power, but bypassing the switch doesn't send the power anywhere you can find. I'm back to suggesting lost connection at a junction box as a result of all the upheaval pulling ceilings down. I'll mix another hot toddy and muse upon it, but I think it's electrician time...