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Can anyone help? I keep getting spam in my inbox telling me how I can "permanently enlarge my cable." Can see how this might be useful on re-wires, but I am confused. Firstly it says I have to take some pills. How the hell can that enlarge a wire? Secondly it says see results within 3 months...

Sorry Firkin, I only gave half the info. What I forgot to mention was that cable should be within permitted routes, i.e vertically or horizontally from accessory. TS

Thanks for reply Andy, but I didn't word my question very well. I appreciate that the cold has no detrimental effect to the electrical functioning of the cable. But surely there must be some sort of additive to help it retain its physical properties of flexibility, which i guess it can only do...

Spiderman you still ain't said how you got on. Hope you aint given yourself an Afro mate. TS.

Nice one Plugwash. Will bear that one in mind, I never thought of it either. Netsidedeveloper, if that aint an option for any reason, remove very small sections of plasterboard and notch studs/noggins. TS

Where possible, just run a new length of cable from your C/U to the first point of each circuit. Where this is impractical or just plain hard work, use methods suggested, JB's/ Adaptable box etc. TS

Why don't the banjo fit? You still stick it on the gland, not the reducer. Done it hundreds of times mate. Or have I missed something here. TS

I would advise against under-floor eating,- you get bits of dirt in your sandwiches. :) Sorry, not very helpful I know, but I couldn't stop myself.

Hi All, just a quickie. What are the heat-dissipating abilities of Artic Flex? Because it can withstand very low temperatures, I assume the sheath/ insulation contains some thermally insulating chemical. But surely, if it don't let cold in, it don't let heat out. All very well when jack frost is...

No Probs Lizzie, could talk electrics all night, thats my problem. If you have any questions feel free to ask. If it is easier 4 you, take my msn messenger number and use that :D

Lizzie, the MCB's you have are of the old type. Modern MCB's are type B,C or D depending on the usage and installation. Domestic Installations usually have type B's. The old type breakers however, Type 1, 2 or 3, (which are approxiamte equivalents to b,c or d) have old ratings equating to fuse...

Thanks darkness, but have found out how to do it now anyway. And I wonder why people say I am p.c illiterate :oops:

Thanks for the kind words, but thats what worries me most - the fact he has got me 4 a teacher. :D

SparkyBird, thanks for the reply and offer. Not in London though, I'm in Portsmouth. Shame though, cause I was working in Mayfair few weeks back, could of copied them then. Don't like to be a pain, but is there any way you could scan and e-mail a copy. My addy is in my profile. Sorry for bein...

Hi Mate, I wonder if you can help. In your reply to Lizzie (Does It Get Easier) you offered to mail past papers. My dad has just started retraining as a spark, and I am trying to find him some past papers for him. Specifically C + G 2381, but also hopefully 2360 PT I or equivalent. If you have...

Hi Lizzie, keep up the good work. And try not to get dis-heartened. It will all get easier with time. It sounds like you have used your own time and money to put yourself through this course, which shows commitment in itself, as any future employee will appreciate. If you are prepared to work...

Hi all, sorry, I know this has been asked 1000 times already. Tried doing a search but couldn't find the other posts. But anyway... I passed my 16th back in 1995 and it was the easiest exam I have ever sat. If you can read an index, you got the result your looking for. Fast forward 10...

Thanks Qedelec, never thought of pop rivets. Cheers, TS.

Have another look in the TLC catalogue/website mate. They definately do a very similar product that is designed for 20mm conduit. Have used them myself but prefer more old-fashioned style saddles, as the slot allows a little extra play if needed. Hope this helps, TS.

Thanks again guys 4 tips. Andy, I agree the OSG does indeed say steel CONDUIT needs earthing, but it also says TRUNKING AND DUCTING need it too. Was assuming capping would come under the category of ducting, though as usual the regs may be vague. Adam totally agree bout the nail/screw issue...