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S14 is the status code for the burner being lit in hot water mode. I would expect to see this when boiler is operating correctly. This makes me think that it could indeed be a temperature sensor playing up. It may well think the hot water being produced is hotter than it actually is. I assume...

Advice on DIY boiler work is not allowed on this forum for good reason. Get an engineer in who has experience on that boiler and let him do it properly.

They fail all the time. Especially in hard water areas due to limescale which isn't covered by the lifetime guarantee. What a surprise. Not saying that this is your problem. May be an idea to remove the cartridge and turn the water on quickly. Sounds like there may be grit or something in the...

That CT1 is serious stuff. I always have a tube on board. Got me out of trouble many times. Strong and extremely versatile.

Remove the whole plug that the bleed screw fits into and replace. That's not always possible though. Depends on the radiator. Can you post a picture?

Just check the tundish by the cylinder. If there's sign of limescale or if it's wet then you probably need to recharge the air gap in the cylinder. There should be instructions on the side of the tank telling you how to do this. It's quite simple. Plenty of links to the instruction manual online.

Most likely your problem is a result of the water within the boiler overheating. This will be caused by poor circulation. How old is your pump? Although spinning it may have lost its 'oomph'. Or it could be a blockage.

+1 Remove trap over a bucket and poke upwards to remove any deposits in the waste. The waste will probably have had some silicone applied when installed so I try to leave in place if poss.

£120 + vat

The valve on the left can be opened more using an Allen key.

Yeah they are the ones I was thinking off. You just rotate the black ring as far as it will go and whilst in that position you should be able to pull the head away from the body of the valve. They're at lot easier if fitted vertically as you only have pipe below it as opposed to the radiator...

Yes. An immersion heater should have its own dedicated fuse on the board so assuming it doesn't power anything else then yes it is fine. Does the switch in the airing cupboard have a removable fuse. You could just remove it if so.

When the temperature drops down press the 'I' button and it should come up with a status code S--. Report back with the status code that is displayed. It sounds like you may have circulation issues either the pump isn't running as powerful as it needs to or there is a build up of crap within the...

I may be wrong but I think those ones are spring loaded. Just below the white body if it was vertical anyway. On your picture it's just to left of the white body I think there is a plastic clip that you rotate to release the valve head. It should just pop off.

Does the boiler stay lit whilst you have a hot tap running?

The condensate is mildly acidic and won't affect pressure is it is just a by-product of the combustion process. Is it leaking from a loose fitting that should have been glued or is the pipe broken. Maybe post a picture and we can tell you how best to proceed.

To be honest I usually just replace them. It's not like servicing a tap where you might reseat it, change the washer, repack the gland, clean and grease it. I'm not even sure what to do to service a thermostatic cartridge apart from clean the scale off it externally.

Actually it looks like the black handles that open and close the valves have been removed. You'll have to use a small spanner. Open one then the other. Don't open fully as may over pressurise if you can't close it quickly enough with a spanner. Close both afterwards.

There should be a black valve at either end of the braided hose in the bottom left of the picture. Open both valves (so the black handle is inline with the pipe) and close both once pressurised. That hose is your filling loop.

Not necessarily it might be a combined pop up waste and overflow. Do you have a pop-up waste? If you are unsure that is the type where you rotate the round thingy where the overflow hole is to 'pop up' the plug? Excuse the technical jargon.