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OK - so if I have the boiler moved (which I think I will), what are the chances of being able to salvage the existing flue? The new location of the boiler would need an extension to reach the external wall, but if I understand correctly, one of these MultiFit jobbies *could* be slotted on to...

I've yet to see it in black and white, but seems the consensus is there's no law against moving a boiler to an existing part of the building, though uprating to a more energy efficient boiler is naturally advised. I have to agree the 80 does seem a bit of a beast, even for a 4 bed detached...

Thanks all - does sound like it makes sense to keep it.

Hi all, We want to move the boiler into the garage. It's a Potterton Prima 80. You can still buy flues for it. Is it worth moving or should we plump for a new condensing one? i.e. are the energy savings likely to outweigh the extra cost? Thanks, Rob

Thanks. The doorway will be upstairs, around 30 cm from where the wall in question returns to the cavity wall. Any remote chance a PCL wouldn't take the strain? Googling around I've heard of folks not bothering to prop or knocking through right up to the ceiling rather than putting in a...

Hi all, I'm planning to create a new standard width doorway in an upstairs load bearing wall (joists run perpendicular and roof trusses sit on it). Will 1 Acro + Strongboy and a 100X65X1200 concrete lintel be sufficient? Thanks, Rob

Thanks - just one piece of dowel in the centre? How deep should it go? Like the idea of the "harlequin cake" joint though! Worth the effort or will the dowel joint be more than adequate?

Hi all, I have an original sawn off newel base and a new complete newel, both square. I need to join the two together. I gather mortise and tenon would be the optimal solution, but I'm wondering if a simple tongue and groove joint would do the job. i.e. cut a big (1/3 width) groove in...

Thanks oldun - I'm here to learn and you seem to know what you're talking about :) Googled the terms you mentioned and came across this: There is still a trimming joist beneath where the baulk head wall used to be - I didn't remove this. It spans the entire landing and stairwell and...

"Cantilevered" is the word I was looking for - thanks! Pretty standard practice then?

Yep, resting on 2 wall to the left, the load bearing one shown and then the external wall some 3m distant. There's just a 10mm thick plank nailed to the ends of the joists, painted white and purely cosmetic I would think. Can't imagine it's adding any real support and in any case I'd...

If definitely so then I won't bother! But there's literally nothing supporting these joists other than the load bearing wall on the left. They then continue a further 3m under the main bedroom before meeting the external wall. They're already hanging in mid air air so I can't see how...

Hi all, I'm planning to fit a new banister. While I'm there, I'd like to make some changes to the landing (left of photo). For some reason it's about 6cm wider at the far end, so I'd like to straighten it up. I'd also like to narrow it by one board width to accommodate the handrail...

I'd fit an extra newel post and wrap the banister around creating a "gallery" landing. This would open up the view out of the bay window and let more light into the landing and hallway. We'd put a couple of armchairs in the bay making for a nice sunny nook. See, there is some method to my...

There's a joist (in the loft) running along the top of it, but there's plasterboard sandwiched in between the top of the wall and the joist, which I think would suggest the wall wasn't part of the original build anyway? Don't think it provides any support to the walls at right angles. Those...

Hi all, Keen to take out this wall (red) to open up the landing. It's masonry but there's no floor below it and it sits on a floor joist (parallel). Technically it's an old external wall as the area beyond the opening used to be a balcony (now enclosed) but it's single skin and...