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An RCD is a recommendation and certainly better for the safety aspect but it can be and should be wired to it's own MCB...

Don't know where you are in the UK but this crowd from Kent give a breakdown on their charges and recommendations etc http://www.kentdomestic.co.uk/servicing.htm Alternatively contact the AGA- Rayburn group and they will put you in touch with your nearest service centre .... ( we did this...

From reading the original note ...I think JANB is putting a ring circuit in by running 2 x 2.5mm T/E cables. JANB if you are running these from a seperate MCB / Fuse in the Concumer unit then you can put in as many sockets as you like likewise if you are 'breaking in' and extending a ring...

Try some of the shops like the 'Bedshed' or similar .. it's only a flat headboard with a couple of brackets on the back that you 'hook' over a couple of screws on the wall above the bed

One thing I would add to this is make sure you get a good quality plug eg. MK type (if there is not a moulded one on the oven) ..some of the cheaper ones leave a lot to be desired and are only good enough for table lamps etc.

SWA is the best option but this could be run thro' heavy duty plastic tubing (not conduit). very flexible usually in a roll. various diameters.That way you can run the phone cable in as well. Possibly be able to get it in a builders yard or similar

when you say 'garden lights' surely you are not refering to having 220v basic flex running thro' the garden? How did you connect the switch via the outdoor socket? is it an outdoor weather proof switch? Any switch fed from any socket should be a double pole (switches both the neutral / live...

There have ben a few occassions where I have requested that Scottish Power come and fit a DP switch prior to relpacing the CU, it used to be a 'freebie' then they started charging in the region of £57 for this. Now I am told of people who have recently had it done as a freebie' .... so I...

I don't think the foxes in our area have been told not to touch cats yet.... one was seen recently crossing a busy road with a 'moggie' between it's teeth! and a neigbours cat has had a few run-ins with them

It's seems to be common practice for Scottish Power to fit a 100A DP switch after the meter nowadays whereby the top end where the tails from the meter go is sealed but the load side (consumer side) at the bottom has 4- terminals and entry holes which will allow upto 2-sets of mains to be...

It's probably just as easy to pull the old plaster plate ceiling down and fit new sheets, I had a similar problem when I moved house, the existing artex was like stalagnites so I replated the whole lot.

What you have is a loop-feed circuit, one of the cables will go to the switch so you have to determine which one it is. Get a meter and cut the power to the lighting, set the meter to read resistance then put the meter leads accross the red and black of each of the cables, they should be open...

You need a 'feather splitter' it's a flat chisel / bolster and can be bought in any good tool store for about £7. I would suggest getting the one with the protective plastic skirt otherwise you could end up with sore knuckles. Hammer this all the way down each side of the floorboard to split...

Do you know anyone with a rotozip with the tile bit .... that will eat thro' wall tile albeit floor tiles are a bit tougher

The green/yellow is the earth and there should be a small seperate brass terminal in the switch housing for this. The RED should go into ComL The BLACK goes into L1 but it doesn't really matter too much if it goes into L2 as it will still work **'mind and put off the power first! **

Only if it's then enclosed in a plastic/metal junction box and preferably fixed to a surface

Yes .... you can usually determine which circuits you like to be covered by the RCD eg. Ring mains, cooker, outside sockets, shower etc. and you would tend to have the lighting, possibly Central Heating, bell transformer or whatever not covered by the RCD. Some Split Load CU's are...

Use the cable selector on the following website ...tad more accurate! http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/index.html As Breezer says.... a new split load CU is relatively inexpensive these days. £34.50 + VAT will get you this and that includes the RCD and Main Switch + the cost of the...

I forgot add in the post above that if that is the type you require then you can still get them at tlc-direct.co.uk or from a Electrical trade counter like Senate or CEF although our local CEF (City Electrical Factors) don't stock MK goods

Sounds like the old MK type,