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Have you changed the bulbs recently ? It's not unusual for a blown bulb to 'fuse' the element creating a 'dead short' in which case the main MCB will trip. Suggest you remove the lamps from the offending room(s) and try the switches again.

Check to see if you have a cylinder 'stat, it is normaly fixed about a 1/3 up from the bottom and fastened by a metal clip. If you do have one it's possible that it is not working properly hence the reason for no hot water or luke warm water.

Masona, I am about to start a similar project (wooden bathroom floor) but I was going to use OSB board as it is 1/2 the price of plywood + it's a large area I have to floor .....should I have any concerns with using this v's Plywood?

If you are considering replacing with a split load board then this site is worth looking at ... http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/WYNHRS6604.html

You could use a tile saw readily available from B&Q or similar outlets or better still if you can get hold of a 'rotozip' with the tile cutting bit. I managed to cut a square out the centre of a tile (to suit a single skt) using a tile saw. I used a durium tipped bit (NOT on hammer action) to...

Ideally you should have a seperate ring altogether for a kitchen rather than being part of the ring feeding the rest of the house. It should also be noted that any skts / spurs etc under the worktop level that may be supplying your w/mc, dishwasher and fridge or whatever must have a means of...

'take it to bits' as in 'take it apart'

If you are buying a fan or whatever for the boiler, it's worth looking at this website for rconditioned Fans PCB's etc. A lot cheaper than the retail prices of new parts http://www.cetltd.com/default.asp

Most of the modern MCB's are a standard fit accross all types of CU enclosures so you do not necessarily have to get a steeple MCB. Best bet is to remove one and compare size / fitments against other available makes

You need a permenant feed (live) into the fan for the timer, not a problem if there are loop feed joints in at the existing light pendant. The fan will have: nuetral live switched live (same one that puts the light on) earth the connections should be identified at the connector block...

Short of getting an RCD tester in order to verify if the RCD is itself faulty, I think you will have to go thro' the same process of elimination with each 16 amp circuit but actually physically disconnecting the cables from the consumer unit Nuetral & Earth terminals and see if it still trips...

I would'nt worry too much about the gap, if you are using the likes of 'gripfill' or 'no-nails' to fix the skirting then the odd 'blob' of the adhesive on the skirting along the level of the gap will (once hardened) stop the skirting board from tipping into it

If you find a way let me know ....we have a couple of tiles in our kitchen with the same problem. Think the only way round it is to renew the tiles (wife is fedup using the scrubbing brush and bleach)

If it's an electric shower eg 7kw or whatever then there should be a pull-chord switch in the bathroom or a large 45Amp switch outside maybe? Either way there will be a dedicated circuit for it at the consumer unit and you should remove the cables iether at the consumer unit or if you are not...

you can use the 'one coat' white plaster as you are really only putting a skim on it, there's a few different brands on the market. Make sure all the joints are well taped. A length of 2 x 1.5 to run down the wall and smooth off any excess plaster is useful and then try and polish it up but...

When you say water tank do you mean the cold water tank or the hot water cylinder? The water tank should'nt have a thermostat but the cylinder would.. I had a similar problem a few weeks back with the hot water cylinder, the thermostat had 'shorted out' so the water would get hotter and then...

hi, RE: the use of junction boxes I assume that you are talking about individual junction boxes for each light / switch? I have not long ago rewired my lighting circuits, upstairs was the loop-in method but for the downstairs lighting I used a central 8" x 8" junction box. I wasn't...

Cheers Breezer... I'll ask at our local builder merchants if they have this or a similar product

forgot to add in reply above .... I normally try to put the cooker outlet box to the side of the cooker if possible but what your Landlord has done is OK

The cooker switch should be accessable ie. above worktop height and obviously situated near enough the cooker to operate it without harm. The only outlet you should have below worktop level is the cooker outlet box where the cable from the cooker and the cable from the isolationg switch...