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The "little blobs of glue" are to stop the tiles breaking in the box during transit/handling. IMO: there's too much emphasis on sealing this and that, you could google and email the mfr's, or simply fix the tile - i would. Presumably its not a massive work area? Porcelain, as you probably...

Is there now, or was there, a moisture problem with the concrete floor? If not. A very thin coat of bagged, powdered adhesive (a scratch coat), allowed to almost dry, and then trowel on in the usual manner.

Why did you remove the last board? Was it rocking or moving? As you can see, the masonry between the joists is proud.

If you are still with us i'll take you a little further. For the general reader's interest: Unless its exceptional circumstances, we always fit the taps and prep the bath before sliding, or dropping, it into an untiled wall(s).

I was under the impression that you wanted to relay new tiles. No. Never lay vinyl or carpet over tiles. You could use a self levelling compound over the grout and adhesive residue, but beware that it will probably raise the FFL of the carpet or vinyl.

There are machines at specialist flooring supplies that can be rented to grind the residue down. You can also hire large, heavy, long handled, steel bladed scrapers from HSS for instance. Depending on how good your DIY tiling skills are, you could apply a thick layer of powdered adhesive...

Why not simply remove the tile in question (prise it down at the joins), and mark out the duct position. Its possible that the extractor covers the whole removed tile area, but tile cuts can be used to cover any exposures. The duct can be pre-fixed to the extractor, and pushed up into the...

Any plasterer worth his salt, can work with your bit of open floor situation, they are used to improvising platforms etc. While finding his FFL is merely a level across or a snapped chalk line. You sound as though you might be rushing into a load of grief - i hope not.

No. Stairs are built to strict dimensions, and, presumably, your stairs originally passed BCO? Too many variables, and not enough info from the pics, plus the pics distort the angles and steepness of the rise and run ratios. Actually, you can do more or less anything in the residential...

So, you enter the front door into a porch that steps up into the main house hallway(?). If you look below the old front door threshold you might see air bricks ( thats if the main house has suspended floors.)Do you see air bricks or vents? What is the height difference between the...

So, you enter the front door into a porch that steps up into the main house hallway(?). If you look below the old front door threshold you might see air bricks ( thats if the main house has suspended floors.)Do you see air bricks or vents? What is the height difference between the...

I still dont understand the damp issues. Use whatever sand and lime or cement you have at hand, just put it on - skim with board finish. Dont use browning, stick with render.

These issues have been much discussed on here. Perhaps, research them. Briefly: Its possible to get retrospective approval from your local council. Various deadlines are required by different councils for when unapproved work is considered a live issue. Some councils offer a detailed...

roy, Great collection of snaps. I wish that i'd had the forethought to do the same. I have a few of a younger me running some solid moulding, and doing rubber mouldings on the bench, and some curved decorative work with lime putty - i dont mind curved work, but i hate lime putty and...

Dont bash out the air brick, just do as suggested above: use any 4" or 6" sleeve to pick up the air brick from the inside. My earlier post was more concerned with you bashing out too much brickwork in a narrow panel of brickwork below a threshold or, as you have got, a window frame. I...

Nath 89, We use corner beads on everything, its quick, provides a screed for ruling off, and simplifies the skimming. But, as above, dont take anything off, work with what you've got. Have you swept & smoke tested the flue(s)? Why not use a 9" x 9" hit and miss vent in the...

I'm with roughcaster on this. Definitely the best way to go. Keeps it simple.

Why the rush if its a, presumably, DIY job? Using rapid-set stuff could get you into a rapid mess. 3:1 S&C will work fine. But leave it a day to settle. If you insist on a rapid-set, then any (cheapest) of them will do - work out how much you need, and read the instructions.

I should leave it as it is.

Just to add: i think that all c/breast supporting steel lintels or gallows brackets below the loft are to be "fire proofed"