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1. The brick corner and the (PVC?) fascia are being slightly pushed out by, perhaps, hip rafter spread. Check the other side hip corner, it too may have spread. Check the interior for cracking. 2. This would also account for some of the dash render damage. 3. Repairs have been attempted...

On the LH wall paper side, the studs/posts are not set on a plate, & appear to go below the concrete into the, presumably, sub-soil. They might be pulling up some moisture. Which would account for the "tide marks" on the wall paper. Something similar might be taking place on the brickwork...

The upper lintel is the original lintel, supported by 9" of brickwork on either side. Before doing anything else: remove the "broken red brick", and make a good solid pad/support to the dodgy left hand side brickwork below the lintel bearing. Then remove the lower, perhaps very heavy...

Agree with above - Acrypol and scrim, best way to deal with asbestos sheet splits and gaps. You've not, however, shown clear pics of the flashing lines against the wall abutments - pics will help. Beware of accessing, or allowing anyone else to access, an old, sodden asbestos roof - its...

Some Mfr's OK laying over laminate, others dont. Read the instructions or contact the Mfr's. I wouldn't do it as a professional job because of the risk of a call back - but if you go ahead, and it doesn't suit, then you will still have intact laminate and intact vinyl to have a re-think...

1. No matter what the FF material is, the base must be solid, or firmly fixed. Its certainly not just a matter of "only requiring the floor to be level" at the main entrance traffic area. 2. What if the OP is req'd to chip away the concrete surface to get a min. depth for the ply? 3. The...

Probe the joist tails as they enter the brickwork pockets - use a thin screwdriver. Probe the wood plate that the joists are sitting on. Come further back, say, 300mm - 400mm and probe again. If both tails are rotted then research cutting joists, propping and bolting-on. The plate both...

1. Could you be specific -type, make, model no, etc - ref the WC you propose? Are you aware of "Back to wall" WC's? 2. Bringing things forward might bring the pan towards the doorway. FWIW, WC's require a free space of 533mm before the pan. Not essential, but might be picked up on a House...

Why have you dug such a pit? Have you consulted your neighbour? Do you know where your neighbour's DPC is located? The clay appears to drop at the bend - it should continuosly fall. You must positively determine where your drainage, of any kind, runs and makes connections. Any...

Difficult to figure out what exactly is your situation. However, you dont seem to be going about it with best practice - forget, for instance, a salesperson in a "damp shop" who wants to sell you chemicals. Its your house & your rot, and if you are serious about remedial work, then perhaps...

With respect, Dont use a cut piece of ply. Why? Because there might be no sound way of fixing the ply, and the shrinkage effect of the adhesive on a small piece of ply might curl or move the ply, and pop the tile.

If there are no damp problems then go for SLC. For your requirements go for the cheapest SLC. Mix a little white glue and water, or a cement slurry to prep the area - whatever you have at hand -then spread the SLC. I'm assuming that you will lift the tile - you should. The wood...

That residue looks like a solvent based adhesive, it seems to permeate into its stone or concrete base. I advised someone else last night about hiring a small grinding machine from a specialist floor suppliers. Very lightly applied, with the correct stones fitted, the grinder will shift...

Suggest that you read up on pouring concrete floors on here. If you are intending to replicate Victorian tile sizes and colour patterns then you are going into a large material outlay: check out "Original Style" Victorian patterns, and then check out the prices. For such an outlay a proper...

None of the above. 1. First fix the guttering. 2. Next, check the window frame and see if its worth saving, or pulling and replacing with a new frame. 3. The cill appears to be stone not concrete, but no matter, its too far gone to save, and codging it up will only create further...

You cannot tile over what you show in the pic. You must have a firmly fixed base for the tile. All the boards must be on a level plane. Perhaps go thro the tedious job of shaving off the proud masonry to give a level over the joist tops, then fix a board, and then prepare for tiling over...

You should transfer this thread to the plastering and rendering forum. Ask for roy c or skimmers, they are both expert in external rendering. My experience of external wood fixing blocks is that they will eventually rot, and create further difficulties.

No. Any Mfr in the quantity you require for such a small area. Use a dark grout.

I still dont understand why you removed the board when your intention was to tile over it? Can you replace the board, firmly screwed down? You will then have a sub-floor for tiling or whatever. Do you want a field of tile, or just a row at the door?

1. your bath goes to the wall - no gaps. And dont set the bath into the wall. 2. Is your bath already installed? 3. Doubling up, or even tripling up, on your applicator nozzle will enable you to reach behind the tap block. Round off a "stick" and liquid soap the end, to smooth the silicon...