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Great stuff, I'll let you know how I get on and thanks again for the advice.

Thanks Richard would bal fastflex adhesive be ok or is there a cheaper alternative that you'd recommend? Also would sandwiching 2 lots of 20mm mamrox board be more rigid than using one lot of 40mm?

Ok having looked at the various options I have now decided to go with the 40mm marmox boards on a latex adhesive over the concrete subfloor. Reading about the uncoupling membranes they say only for use on floors of more than 5m squared but mine is only 1.76 so would I be ok with just flexi...

I'd fix the battens to the floor using tapcon screws and seeing as the room is only 2.2m by 0.8m I think there'd be plenty of rigidity in the floor using 18mm ply on top of the existing insulation. How would you fix marmox board to the subfloor, is it using the latex adhesive to which you...

The ceramic tiles have been bought already and must be fitted or my life won't be worth living from her indoors! Why do you advise a 38mm screed as opposed to using a self levelling compound? Would a suspended floor using 20mm tanalised timber batten mounts and 18mm marine ply over the current...

A picture is worth a thousand words so here is the current set up. My dilemma now is to either : 1) Hope there is a dpm below the current concrete floor (getting rid of the blue dpm and polystyrene insulator)and pour on a self levelling compound to make up the 38mm deficit- Problem...

I intend laying ceramic tiles on the downstairs toilet floor but on lifting the vinyl floor tiles, I have found that the 18mm chipboard floor underneath, is floating on a layer of 20mm polystyrene and blue polythene membrane. Underneath this the floor is concrete. The house is a bryant built...

I intend laying ceramic tiles on the downstairs toilet floor but on lifting the vinyl floor tiles today, I have found that the chipboard floor underneath is floating on a layer of 1" polystyrene and blue polythene membrane. Underneath this the floor is concrete. The house is a bryant built...

What's the difference between this and the lite version other than cost?

Great! When you say enter engineers is that a code that I would have to get from texecom?

Is the system easy to install by direct replacement of a texecom veritas r8 and is it any good? Edit- is it true that you need an engineer access only manual to install it and that it's not a diyers system?

No I don't work with cars but I work on the most complicated machines in the world, take a guess! Lol at the stereo being turned up!

I am not dismissing the fact that it should be serviced just don't like the car analogy! I guess it's all relative as basically even an MOT is no guarantee of the safety of the car 1 second after it leaves the garage. At least with the car you usually have a sign of something going wrong like...

I take your point but I think car servicing is a poor analogy as they are subject to a yearly MOT after three years and the service is mostly a ripoff for a basic oil/filter change and plugs if you're lucky- any of which can be done by a monkey! The difference being I would happily do any car...

Thanks for the reply. I will check the meter units but as the house was only built in 1997 I suspect it will be the new type. The boiler hasn't been serviced for 10 years but it has always run fine and to be honest has never thrown up any faults. The CH system has been flushed and cleaned by...

I currently have an ideal classic ff280 boiler installed in my home but my gas usage graphs from eon are showing ridiculous increases on a monthly comparison basis to last year. As an example September was up 130% and it wasn't even a cold month! In fact all through the summer the usage was up...

hmm all these views and no help....v odd :D