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Thanks woody, I thought gripfill stays flexible and can't be drilled?

Is there anything on the market that dries rock hard and comes in a sealant gun cartridge? I want to pipe some in behind some plasterboard to fill a void and be able to drill and fix into it afterwards.... (filler foam is no good) Thanks

Exactly, it really was a piece of P**s and didn't take long at all. Just gutted we lost to the saffas, bloody ref!

Just to update you... I took the boards up upstairs and relocated the wires to run vertically to the new position, as the existing cable was plenty long enough. No junction boxes needed. The wife's pleased and I even got to catch the rugby too. Job done. Thanks all.

Cheers Adam, much appreciated.

Yes you have it spot on there. Cheers for the advice, it looks like attempting it from upstairs or the original plan A are the best options. lol re the large based wall light- I don't think they do one 12" in diameter ! :lol:

What is the distance of the safe zone horizontally from an accessory? Mine would be 12" so would it be within the zone? Thanks

Thanks that is what I thought. Not sure where you get this bit from as I didn't say this!

I know that the correct method would be to do what I said initially and I agree re it being a bodge but wouldn't it be compliant with the current regs? The dot and dab is so copious as to be an almost continuous layer behind the board from light position upto ceiling/coving so fishing with...

I think I already know the answer to this one but I will just confirm for my own peace of mind! The scenario- a large lounge with 3 wall lights and a dimmer switch (standard config) The position of the two wall lights on the far wall is pretty pants and therefore both need shifting 12 inches...

It is connected fine but sounds like the red sleeve from the switched live via the black neutral wire has gone awry somewhere along the line. Put some red insulation tape on the black wire that your light fitting live is connected to for future reference for yourself or others looking at the...

It's an SELV max 80W output type. (there are 6 10W halogens in the fitting) so presumably the IQ range of LV dimmers and Infra-red/Touch dimmers ?

Would one of these be ok to use on the central light with the inbuilt 12v transformer. http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Manufacturers/Varilight/Wiring_Accessories~Dimmers_1/ It has 6 10W halogen mini bulbs. How do you do the following 'for Tungsten Halogen Lighting and candle lamps de-rate the...

Silly me, just realised that there's 12mm plasterboard around the box too so that will give a max clearance of 28mm. Looks like a standard twin dimmer and a switch module to replace one of them then. Thanks fellas. :D

just checked the depth of backbox and it's only 16mm... :(

There are two TWE 1.5mm switch cables, one for the downlights and one for the central light

Thanks RF how deep do the grid switch recesses have to be?

Thanks John, so there's nothing that would fit into a standard light switch pattress box? Have never heard of the gridswitches before so will have to check them out.

I want to use a dimmer on the 6A downlights and a normal switch for the central halogen 12v ceiling light as they are not compatible with a dimmer . Rather than wiring two separate switchplates I was wondering if there was a single plate 2 gang switch with a dimmer and a switch around anywhere...

or diagonally :lol: