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Well yu've done enough prep and your plan seems good. It rather depends on the quality of your paint now. Make sure it has good "leveling" characteristics. Some manufacturers state this on the can. I hate glossing! I've just finished seven window frames - three of the sash - and it's like a...

Take your own digital photograph and then print it using Inkjet Waterslide Decal paper from: here follow the insructions and apply to tiles. I think you use a hairdryer to "fix" them and after that they are washable. IKEA have a standard pebble print in a choice of sizes that you...

I think it's when a baby sheep has its appendix out :wink:

I did exactly what you're suggesting about three months ago - except that I was moving the kitchen to the back of the house from the middle. But I did extend the mains side of the pipe to allow me to box it into a corner and face it off. It was easy enough to do...turn off mains at street...

Wicks do a (sort of) nice looking fire regs compliant door. It's not cheap though. Also, you could fit a standard fire door and then use a trimming kit to dress it up. I doubt paint on a standard door would pass Building regs as the paint would need to withstand fire for a minimum of half an...

If you live in a block of flats and they are leashold, or for that matter rented, then you would need permission to break into the drainpipe. You could end up with a hefty bill for renewing the changes you made and then carrying out the work you want done. I'd check with your leasholder/landlord...

Firstly Rob's right; 2" is too much to take off a standard door...though yours could be outsized which would be okay... And you wouldn't take it off one side becasue you'd have a unbalanced look to it...unless it's a featurless panel door. Which I doubt it is as it's external. You take...

That's good news. Well done that man!

I'd have thought that a repair would be the last thing you'd want to do. You may not be worried about a "marsh" forming but you could end up with damage to the foundations if they are close enough. Also, whilst a temporary repair to the exterior of the pipe might be possible the crack will no...

A tile cutter? :wink: Seriously, try this...it's £30 but will save a lot of wasted tiles and make for a neat job: http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=13192&ts=64316

If the walls are true the internal and external corners should be 45 deg. Most walls aren't though! Mine certainly aren't. A useful tool is a Carpenter's Bevel. You can put this to your corner and set it so that the handle and blade are against the wall/skirting board, lock it and then use a...

You can buy plans here: http://www.g2meyer.com/dovecote/index.html Hope this helps and good luck.

In north London, where I live, you can buy "new" sleepers for about £15 each. I'm sure they are available elsewhere. They weather very quickly and are not creosoted. You would have to treat them but you could use something like Ronseal which is not a contact hazard.

Some boilers also require that the power is also cut before the ignition sequence. It could be that. Or the thermocouple could be faulty/out of line. An obvious question: do you have gas going to the boiler?

A propriatory fungal killer - such as you might use for the shower - would work, or a solution of bleach. The problem you face is that this could also bleach the wood. A test patch would be a good idea. You should be able to get a fungal killer from a good supermarket or DIY shop/store. If...

Unfortunately it isn’t and I refuse to have ducting from it to the external wall – it’d look awful. So it has to be the fan-in-the-wall. I’m just glad it isn’t required to be automatic. I’ll switch it in the wall and have done with it. Just another couple of weeks and we can sell this...

Cheers Lads...that'll do for me...I'll stick it in and have it run from a switch... which will no doubt never be used... Building regs can be a right pain in the tweed...

So the surveyor wants a through-wall fan now…he could have made this point before the kitchen was almost completed…and why the regs require it when the re-sited kitchen (I moved it from mid-point in the property to the back) has two huge sash windows, a door, and a extractor/filter over the...

A good old-fashioned carpenter/joiner could knock you some blocks up in any timber you could name. Take one of the originals with you though so he can measure it and examine it for patina (which he may be able to match with dye and wax).

The 30amp ring is most likely newer than than the lights and socket rings so has not had the time to oxidise yet. Especially if the house is an older build.