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Yes there is.... but it will cost you way more money.

No need for digging the floor up... If the existing isn't cracked there'll be no problem.

There's no need for any tying, just brick upto the lintel, if there is a gap, pack it with mortar. Presumably its a cavity wall? So the brick & block will be tied together anyway.

Porridge oats, half milk/half water, tsp of honey, few raisins & blackberries & a sprinkle of sunflower seeds, served very thick. Quality!

Assuming the mortar has had a few weeks to fully cure. Hose down the wall. The acid will need to be diluted to the manufactures recommendations. Then applied to the wall and scrubbed with a stiff brush then rinsed off. It won't damage the mortar.

The odd joint may of had a hole in it, which has let water in, nothing to worry about. The cavity fill concrete... nothing special required there. For ease of shoveling just a weak-mix not too wet or dry, bit like the little bears porridge :D Fill cavity up to ground level.

Aye, no problem.

Yes, as you say, it's pointless cutting the bottom without doing the top... However there must be 000's without a cavity cut out or a vertical DPC fitted, depends on the porosity of the bricks, and the exposure of the building to the prevailing wind & rain, as to whether there's a problem or not.

I can't recall ever seeing one on a domestic extension. So, no.

I'd recommend screwing a batten temporarily accross the centre of where you'll be laying the soldiers, as they're prone to tip forward... I too wouldn't bother with a tray, return it for a refund? But they go beneath & up behind the bricks if you insist :D

It's up to you; if you want them bonded just get some half blocks. The length of the wall needs to be set out so it takes full blocks eg. a wall 2010mm long would take 10 blocks & 11mortar joints.

Yes.

If its only 18mm out of plumb I'd just build the new external coner plumb, obviously! and just run the new into the old. I don't think it'll be noticeable...

There's ooo's of houses with engineering brick upto DPC...

Tony, It only looks a small extension, if the room had originally been built to the proposed new size. Presumably there wouldn't be any returns then, so why the need for any now?.. Just curious :)

I'd use a 6x4 concrete lintel.

Forget special order bricks they'll take weeks to arrive & cost a fortune. Cutting with a grinder will take ages, and cause loads of dust & noise. Hold one in the palm of one hand, a sharp tap in the middle of the brick with a brick hammer will break most bricks cleanly down the middle...

Yes, go with the dense concrete. They're much more suitable for a garage than the thermalite type IMO.

The usual method is to cast the slab in one go (readymix) and build the walls off that.

He's cut the lead in at angle which follows the roof pitch. On brickwork this is usually done with individual pices of lead, each cut horizontally into a mortar joint. (But is ok) The lead doesn't overlap the "tiles" on a slate roof. Lead soakers are placed between the layers of slate, and...