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Why not just keep it simple...? Use a conventional steel lintel (IG/Catnic type) over the openings with a couple of course of face brick on the outside and a course of block on the inner leaf with a timber wallplate on top? :)

Cut everything out at the same time. I would say you'd only need to remove 3 bricks to get the lintel in, so no need for an acrow, and something like a 300x300 hole for the flue.

I would cut out an appropriately sized hole for the flue to pass through and use a short 100x65 concrete lintel to span the opening, allowing 100mm bearing on each side. To cover the hole you could use a piece of supalux fireboard cut around the flue, glue/screw it to the wall and plaster up...

Don't waste your money Alex, a 1350mm openings is nothing. Just bang a 140x100 concrete lintel. Job Done. I promise :)

Biggish job really and potentially dangerous. Biggest problem is that it's joined to the neighbours. You'll need to cut it at the boundary (ask the neighbour first :) ) At least a 100mm deep cut. The concrete will defo be solid with metal reinforcing bars embedded. I would work from...

Yes, as you said really. wedge it in with slate, & pack with mortar. Some would say the lintel's a bit small at 65mm deep. but it would probably do.... I would use a 140mm deep one myself.

Look in Yellow Pages or the internet for a woodturner. He will be able to make a few for you.

It's the best way...

Printed side up. It looks better :lol: No it doesn't matter.

Two steel beams. Concrete ones, at a sufficient depth would be very heavy As for size 200x100ish.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LLQS27yQZYY&feature=share

Well that's 10 minutes of my life I'll not get back :?

I would be more inclined to stick with your original plan to build an insulated timber structure with the cedar cladding... Q1 No hardcore, only concrete, about 150 thick Q2 Yes more digging :(

In reply to your last paragraph; yes that's exactly what I meant. If you're doing all the work yourself, a slab would be easier, cheaper & quicker too, but you would see an unsightly? upstand to the edge of your slab, as it would be presumably be 150mm above ground level, Also the timber would...

I would forget the raft.. Use strip foundations, 2 course of concrete block to ground level, then 2 or 3 course of engineering brick, 150mm MOT, sand blind, visqueen, insulation, 100mm concrete slab. DPC onto brickwork, treated 100x50 wallplate screwed to bwk then build your walls. Mesh...

Those blocks aren't Thermalite, and you should get a good fix with throughbolts. If your drill bits the right size, maybe go for a resin fix..

Strips of Visqueen (plastic) if it's raining. Hessian (sacking) & visqueen if it's going to be frosty.

Are they Thermalite blocks? If so I think you'll struggle to grt a decent fix.. Edit.. Or see the other similar thread.

Mmmm, one to ponder on... Well compacted type 1 certainly sets very hard, and is stable. So providing the blinding is flat and level, to take the insulation and chipboard I reckon it would work... Why not?

A lot of graft for one man though.. need a man on either end of the tamp, and preferably one in the concrete, filling any low areas or dragging back high-spots.