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Personally, I think there are too many variables with ply, I'd rather be going down the 18mm Ply and Hardie route. Ply on its own regardless of thickness needs to be screwed at 300mm max in each direction, which you can't do with your 400 joists with out placing extra noggins before the ply goes...

That has to be one of the funniest pieces of blissful ignorance I have seen in a while. Really, a joke. Ok, say the job was straight forward (which its not because of the levels)....... cost of materials, wear and tear on tools, tax and national insurance, public liability, travel expenses, van...

If you've left the gap for the mosaic, spread the adhesive in, press the mosaic in to the adhesive so that it is still protruding very slightly, then dab a rubber grout float over both the tiles and the mosaic to achieve the same level. One of the joys about mosaics is that it almost...

To be honest, it looks fairly good. Yeah the cuts on the angle could be a little more accurate, but if the rest of the job is done correctly, these will be covered with a bead of silicone anyway and won't (or shouldn't) be visible. Everything else seems to line up nicely. What is it you're not...

Not really. You would be best off taking the tiles down and starting again. But depending on the adhesive used, the tiles might be able to be saved. Carefully take the tiles off (shouldn't be too hard if D&D'd). If it was ready mixed adhesive, see of the adhesive will scrape off, if not give...

Could it have been "OPF"? One Part Flexible? Was it ready mixed or powdered?

Its personal preference at the end of the day. Some people like it with grout, some without. I would just be concerned about the muck getting in and making it less hygenic. As for the vinegar, on ceramic tiles, it might work. But the acid will badly attack any calciferous stone such as marble...

Do you have any images? Sounds more likely to be travertine. Anyway, with tumbled tiles, you have to options. You can grout them by pointing the grout in to the joints, thus not getting any in the holes. However, the holes will be proper dirt catchers and will start to look very manky very...

Don't mix it loose. Stick to the instructions. If its too loose, you will loose consistency and density, which could lead to failure. Mix it to the instructions, and if you're not going to use slc, spread the adhesive over the mat, AND the back of the tile with the serated edge of the trowel...

Vs. I'm with Vinn on this one. Just priming a wooden wall with SBR in a shower is a silly suggestion as it is nowhere near sufficient. At the very least it will need tanking, but even then it can be affected by atmospheric humidity. It simply can't be trusted and in my opinion, plywood has no...

You could use a grout sealer like LTP Grout Protector. It will repel most things, but with pee being acidic, it can break down the sealer and it will need re-applying every couple of years. Agree that epoxy is hard to use but it will work for what you want it for. But as above mixing the whole...

Wow. Someone has been doing their homework :) Everything you have said is spot on. Providing it is a cement coated insulation board you have (like Marmox or Wedi), then it will have decoupling properties as the foam can de-bond from the coating if there is significant movement.

Is the ply Marine, WPB or exterior grade? It should be, but if that is the case, do not prime the face that you are tiling as it will hind the bond of the adhesive. Seal the back and edges with a suitable SBR primer (not PVA). But to be honest, wood, in a potentially wet or humid room??? I...

Probably not the TS. Whilst a wet cutter or angle grinder may be the preferred option for most, unless you have a fine glass blade, they will splinter quite badly. A manual cutter with a moveable breaker system would be far easier and quicker. The TS's fixed breaker will mean you have to take...

Any SBR primer will do the trick. Either BAL Bond or Palace Tilers Primer....... or Tilemaster Prime Plus........ and Dunlop Universal Bonding agent..... Norcros Prime Bond is another one...... so is Everbuild SBR...... and Ultra Prime It...... Guessing theres a few more but these are the ones...

Not worth the risk. If Bostik say don't do it, then don't do it. The product you have used is designed to provide a damp-proof course beneath a screeded substrate i.e, the layer before a sand:cement screed. You should have bought a shower "tanking" kit, such as the BAL WP1 or Ardex WPC. Mapei...

LTP Glaze Protector. Suitable for glazed and impervious surfaces :) http://www.ltp-online.co.uk/prod/ltp-glaze-protector

I could be wrong, but looking at that picture, the blue plastic could be a corner curl of the DPM. if it is, then asphalt was not needed and has made the situation worse. The encasing cement screed is fine, but an alternative finishing layer like a latex SLC would have been better. I can't see...

I have been looking into this a bit further for you. The expansion joints and matting will definitely be needed if the floor is relaid onto the asphalt. However one other issue that I haven't considered is possible vertical movement. This will depend on the thickness of the asphalt, but as it...

Yes that is an expansion joint. Easily noticeable because they will be much wider than your standard grout lines. If they can move, they should just be able to lift out, but you may need a suction pad to get it out. The only other way is to remove some of the grout and lever the tile up. Or...