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Ok, its a start. The grout joints look ok. With regards to the area, if all the rooms are directly connected, it is classed a one single tiled area. So the minimum place for expansion joints is through each tiled doorway. If an area exceeds 5 metres in either direction, there should be another...

If they are tiling in a customers property, they should know what they are doing and know what preparations are required. I don't see why you should be out of pocket for poor workmanship. Obviously we don't know the correct procedure or time scales, but there will be tell-tale signs to show if...

Its a rubber trim that goes between tiles to to divide your floor into bays. They take alot of the lateral stress out of tiles when there is and horizontal movement. On underfloor heating the need to be laid every 5m or less in each direction leaving bays no larger than 25sq.m each, because with...

Minimum grout joint on UFH should be 3mm. Were expansion joints used? And how big is the overall tiled area?

Is it a sand/cement screed, or Anhydrite? Was it primed? How wide are the grout joints? Have you used expansion joints?

I'd probably opt for a more intensive cleaner. When you say "Stripped back too", what was covering the tiles?

Closest I can think of is Normannie Sabbia by a factory called Settecento. Edges aren't as wavey but it has very similar pits and markings. The size of them is 327x327. So 3mm smaller but the closest match I can think of.

£100 is probably.......[ummm... whats the word......] Optimistic. The labour alone for doing that would probably be a minimum of £150 (tilers day rate if he can do it in a day), plus the cost of the materials which will depend on the area you are doing........ which is..... how big (sqm)?

Nearly forgot to mention, tape the boards around any pipework or your shower valves.

Boards down to the floor screwed to the studs every 300mm (bead of silicone across the bottom where it meets the floor), tray up against them, tape across the joints of the boards and overlapping the tray, tank it if required, tile it, grout it, trim any excess tape from around the shower tray...

Sounds about right. If you use Aquapanel, I would recommend tanking it with BAL WP1 or Ardex WPC. Aquapanel is water resistant, not waterproof, so moisture can still travel through the grout and through the board, so the tanking will prevent that. Another option is to use a fully waterproof...

I think whatever you do is going require a steady hand. The only thing I can think of is to rake the old grout out and re-apply, but black against white is the worst combination for showing flaws. And raking grout out is a pig at the best of times.

You "might" be ok with heavier but you are not adhering to British Standards and therefore voiding all guarantees with the adhesive and tile manufacturers. More importantly, you could be sitting in the bath when the plaster decides to fail and a tile in the head would kinda hurt a bit...

What adhesive did you use and which primer did you use to prime the floor? The liquid screeds are known as Anhydrite or Calcium Sulphate Screed..... Gypsum based. You therefore cannot tile directly onto it with cement based adhesive as a chemical reaction between them creates Ettringite...

What type of screed is it? Sand and Cement or Anhydrite/Calcium Sulphate

were any expansion joints installed? how much gap was left between the tile and the wall all the way round the perimeter? (and what was it filled with?) Do you have any loose tiles that you can lift and send an image of the floor beneath and the backside of the tile?shouldn't be a problem to re-fix

Very similar to a thread that we've just been advising on. although luckily, yours sound like it may be easier to fix. Patchy grout - most common cause is too much water in the mix so you have excess sulphates rising to the surface. The tiles also sound like they have a grout haze on the...

Don't get me wrong it is possible on some tiles but it all depends on the absorption rate. So for example, the tiles daisy has the rate is (or should be) <0.5% (if you have any packaging left for the tiles, it may have the class which should be B1a which is the BSEN14411 classification for a...

Water splashes will be fine. The tiles are waterproof and despite the grout only being water resistant, most splashes will evaporate before it has a chance to get through the grout and the adhesive below. Like I said if you use the recommended ply, moisture resistant etc...... you will be ok. A...

Proflexible may not be one of their mainstream products and are only exclusive to specific suppliers. I notice Tile Magic do it. Read the specs and it will be fine for that size tile. But if the tiles are ceramic, I'd opt for a white version as grey can sink into the back of a porous back tiles...