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Hmmm..... Ok. Think someone needs to read the small-print, or better still the Technical Data Sheets. We've tested waterproof properties on grouts and adhesives before. The only TRUE waterproof grout we tested was epoxy resin. But even if I was using that in a shower, I would still tank it...

A couple of answers for you. The plaster will depend on the thickness. If it is a skim onto another surface, you only need to leave it for 48 hours. If it is thick plaster going over brick or render then yes you do need to leave it longer. If it is tiled too soon, you are locking in the moisture...

Yeah, one of the main things with natural stone, especially marble and travertine, because it is porous a dark adhesive can bleed in to the back and permanently discolour it.

If its a natural Emperador marble and not an imitation, that should be fine for the floor. Needs to be well sealed though and fixed with a white cement-based adhesive. They probably only offer it as a wall mosaic due to it having no slip resistance, but the grout lines will stop you from...

Whoever did that is not a tiler. He needs tracking down and shooting. Then you can take his wallet and reclaim what is rightfully yours; The money you paid him and the compensation he would owe you for doing such a s*** and frankly, dangerous job. When those tiles come down, don't be in the...

First, if the tiles weigh more than 20kg per m2, they can't go onto plaster. Re bord it with hardiebacker, or chip the plaster away to the bare substrate. (Depending on what that is may need more prep) Second, if the tiles are the correct weight, the size is too big for ready mixed adhesive. You...

sorry to say, sounds like a disaster starting to happen! and if it is, you will only be able to bodge the repairs for so long. Chances are the ply is swelling. Just because its marine ply, its not fully waterproof. So because it is only water resistant, it will take in water, and if it sits for...

You'll need to board the floor out first with moisture resistant chipboard (the green stuff) or 18mm WPB Ply. Overboard that with the 6mm hardie backer or a further layer of 18mm ply. Whichever you go for, the overboard will need to be screwed down at 300mm centres (this is the recommendation...

The primer will be fine, Both Bal and Ardex do their own versions, so this is the Mapei equivalent. As for when the area is tanked, yes you can tile directly onto it.

I'd use the Ardex WPC or the Bal WP1. Would rather do that thank risk the plaster going soggy.

That stuff only needs a very thin coat. So providing its a solid substrate, you shouldn't any issues with movement. You'll be better off going over the DPM with a latex based self levelling compound then use a single part flexible adhesive for tiling.

Any grout residue remover can affect dark polished porcelain. When they are made, the are nano-sealed with a pigmented wax. Acid based cleaners can break down the wax and pigment, destroying the tiles beyond repair. Another product that will work is the LTP Power Stripper. This will slowly...

Option 2, but you are going to need additional noggins between the joist before you start. British Standards suggest the initial floor layer needs to be screwed down at 300mm. If your joists are 400, regardless of the layers you put over it, there will still be too much flex. So your noggins...

Who's Tony? lol :) Anyway, Plasterboard can hold 32kg so that will be fine.... BUT.... as plasterboard can turn to mush if it gets wet, if it was me, I'd prime it and tank it with WP1 if its in a shower area. Lets just say I had a bad experience about 15 years ago. Since then, for shower walls...

I know you can get some half decent ones at wickes. Got one about 5 years ago. Cost me £50 and i've used it for marble grantite slate an porcelain. Still going....... just. Must admit though, it did struggle and sometimes cut slightly off line if you forced a tile through. Have a look at a...

Porcelain is denser than ceramic. Would advise double checking. Also on that size tile regardless if its ceramic or porcelain, you need a cement based powder adhesive. Ready mixed won't dry properly. Plaster will also need priming with an acryllic primer. Sorry if you know all this already...

The issue with plaster is the weight it can hold. As per British Standards, the maximum weight you can apply to plaster is 20kg per square metre. This must also include the weight of the adhesive. What size tiles are they? and are they ceramic or porcelain?

Wow. quick reply :) If the walls aren't straight enough to tile, you need to fix that before tiling. And you can use the Aqua-panel to do it. My usual method: 1. Primer ALL the plaster with an acryllic primer such as BAL APD (reason to follow shortly). 2. Mark the walls and the boards for the...

I'm sure we'll be able to point you in the right direction. Need some more info if possible: What type of tile are you using? Ceramic, Porcelain or natural stone? What size tiles are they (including the thickness)? Are the walls flat? What substrate is under the plaster? Where in conjunction...

Being crumbly and patchy in colour would normally imply an issue with the mixing. You say you have mixed it as per the instructions but too much water is the most common cause of crumbling grout and efflorescence, meaning the salt contained in the cement is dissolved and separated when water is...