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I should say, I have 2x100A Supply fuses installed at the meter. Not everything will be going at once.

At the meter I have a CU with an 80A 30mA with a 40A MCB. There is 16mm swa to the garage. The suppliers supply fuse/meter etc is in a seperate small building attached to the house with a feed going into the CU in the house and another to this CU beside the meter. Run from meter to garage is...

Distance is about 90m running a single 3kw & 2 three phase motors via an inverter with the motors rated at 1kw each.

Just ordered a set of those Hager tails. Will let you know if they do the job. Cheers.

I was wondering when you would appear with your negativity. Bye and stay out of my thread when you can't offer help like these other good willing members.

That could well do the trick. Very interesting indeed. If I use that, then I won't need a junction box etc. Cheers for that.

One other important thing is the CU gets its supply from 16mm Swa which is terminated in a galvanised box and the cores connected directly into th CU which leaves less room. What do you suggest for a junction box? Could you join the swa to a smaller cable via henleys inside an IP rated...

Using 25mm due to distance and for driving motors, also for future development.

I have Hager CU in the garage and I am taking a supply to another building further on down the yard. I have 25mm 3-core swa buried underground. I am looking for suggestions as to a simple way of connecting the swa into the hager cu. Trying to bend the cores inside the cu for connection will...

I was right then. Cheers.

Just a quick question. What size of gland is used for 25mm 3-core swa? The Tlc website states a 25mm gland but a 25mm gland I have here in front of me states on the packaging, it's for 16mm swa or 25mm 2-core swa but a 32mm gland is needed for 25mm 3-core. What is the correct one? 32mm?

Cheers for the replies. I suppose a downside in using 16mm at the shower would be the connecting of it. It could be awkward and 10mm would be easier. I'll try 16mm and see how it goes.

I am in the middle of putting a new bathroom in and the shower cable needs replacing as its too small. Accessing the CU to install a new cable is nearly impossible but a number of years ago I had 16mm t&e running from the CU up into the attic which was to be used to power the outside sheds...

I am told these agents are the authorised dealers of agrilights. It appears you have to go through one of these people to get the lights so that rules out buying them through the internet for a tad cheaper.

He had planned to install twin 58/70w weatherproof HF fluorescents which still provide excellent light and are easy on juice. These agents want him to dump the fluorescents for these 400w agrilights. In terms of running costs and purchase costs, the fluorescents seem the better option...

So where does the energy saving come into play then with these lights?

A neighbour of mine has put up a new cattle shed 200ft by 100ft I think it is and several agents want him to fit Agrilights (AL2007 400watt HPS fixture) as they are the most energy efficient lights on the market. Each light is around £400 so some have said. It will cost thousands for the...

If these HF lights have like electronic boards on them, how reliable are they especially when there can be massive difference in price? With the old starter lights, the only thing that gave bother was the starter but with these HF lights, if the board gave trouble, you have to change the...

Cheers for that. So the tubes are the same. What on earth makes these lights special or worth the extra money over the old started type?

I am looking to install 6 x 5ft twin weatherproof lights and I previously used to install Thorn 5ft 58w twins but these starter type lights seem to be a thing of the past and everyone is moving onto the HF versions. I have been looking at screwfix and they are a shocking price and there seems...