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The downlight should be earther now it has 230v going to it. Having said that, some of the ridiculously flimsy fortuoutous connection to earth on some GU10 downlights renders it, in my opinion, almost pointless anyway!

What reg is that please? I cant see a situation where alarms would be powered from diferent circuits yet have a common interlink wire. Surely if one has gone to the trouble of running in a separate interlink wire to each smoke they may as well have run a 3c&e to each fitting, meaning that...

http://www.technicaltrainingsolutions.co.uk/courses/plc-programming-530.shtml

http://alchemybar.com/product/bar-spoon-with-fork-50cm/

Yep either a different switch or cut out the existing back box and sink a 35mm deep box in, but there will probably be some making good to do afterwards!

http://www.orlight.com/products/specialist-led/mtg21-fixed-downlight/

Agree with the above. And also the socket lead adapters in my experience go high resistance quite often too. If you don't do the fig 8 test for R1R2 then you won't pick up any NE reversals if the circuit isn't RCD protected (assuming that the R1RN test isn't carried out as a matter of course).

Turn the new switch around 180deg then wire exactly as the old switch.

How about changing one of the double socket outlets for a 20A DP switch?

What size shower? What size protection? Any signs of overheating anywhere?

Surely that would just blow the fuse immediately!

That's my dream of a Nespresso machine fixed to the bulkhead out of the window then! Useful info.

Actually, Ive just checked the Icon instructions for the 230v models and it states this on page 2: "The iCON Fan has an IP X4 rating housing and is suitable for mounting in Zone 1 or 2 in bathrooms, toilets, kitchens, utility rooms and inside shower cubicles as defined in Section 701...

Xpelair state on their website that their DX100 fans are suitable for installation in zone 1.

Yes John, thank you. That's pretty much what I was trying to say. I'm afraid I don't seem to be able to go into enough depth or articulate myself properly when posting! I too would always advocate tracing a fault and rectifying and 9.5 times out of 10 the customer is happy for this to happen...

Obviously you test the circuit to prove that each point has a cpc present.

I think the only way to make a broken ring safe if there is no continuity on live or neutral is to drop out the faulty leg as there is no telling what the fault is. Only time I think it's acceptable to down rate the MCB is if there is no continuity on the CPC.

RF, have you had much use out of your new toy on a day to day basis?! Or has it been waiting for that special moment?! I'm asking because I want one but after the novelty wears off I can only see it being used once every so often..

How about something like this? Says its for lights but as long as its rated for 13a it should be fine and I shouldn't imagine you'll be switching it on load anyway. http://www.screwfix.com/p/siemens-basic-remote-on-off-socket-kit/30451

Ahh, it was in your house, that's okay then! You know what they say, cobblers kids worst shod an all that!