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Could anyone please explain to me why you wouldn't want, or can't have hot water and heating programmed to come on at separate times? This is in relation to a Danfoss CP715 programmer I have come across where of course you can't have separate programmed times for the heating and hot water...

I get in trouble for looking at the steel conduit and tray work in supermarkets...if I started looking at my neighbours earthing arrangements every time I popped in for a bowl of sugar I think I'd be up for divorce!

Last I heard, UKPN start at £1200 +VAT for head move. This means they can generally price without having to to a site visit. If you go for it then they will make a site visit and if there is more work involved it could be more! Plus the work your electrician will have to do.

It's not incorrect, but with the figures you have used you have a 4.1% volt drop from the origin to the end of the supply cable. This leaves only 0.9% left for your power circuits and you have already exceed the maximum allowable volt drop for a lighting circuit! (as JohnW2 has pointed out...

16mm2 allows for a 2% VD on 75m allowing room for the final circuits. If you cut the length of run in half you will be fine with a 10mm2 SWA for a 32A circuit. If you are exporting PME down there then be aware of any bonding you may need to do hence using a 3c cable.

No probs.

16mm2 3c, 32A supply.

Easy switch looks good although I've never used it. MK always seems to come up very pricey so again, I've never used it! Wise controls have always worked well for me and Rako was excellent although very expensive and I had to buy a booster to get it over 30m which ate all my profit on one...

I would love to see a copy of your report! A clucking good read I should imagine.

...if you can see it past the glare of the down lights...

Try this. Best Practice Guide No.5. Page 9. http://www.esc.org.uk/industry/industry-guidance/best-practice-guides/ It has a handy table that states what where you do and don't need fire rated down lights. There are a few notes to the table to check the structure and flooring make up...

Room for future expansion and often cheaper than a smaller board if the 15 way is on offer!

Very nice! Have you spent as much time admiring it yet as you have installing it! What cable markers do you use?

The penny drops! Thanks

What is the purpose of sending 240v to terminal 2 of the cylinder stat when using a 3 port valve? The valve is getting its 240v direct from the programmer HW off so what is the reason for sending it to the cylinder stat too? Thanks.

I think you just have to go for it. I would trust the Richmond dimmer. You say you have a VPro mod already in place so give that a go too. I have had excellent results with the VPro trailing edge dimmer with a couple of different types of LED lamps & tape, not sure if it's the same one already...

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SK153720.html

Used one of these to dim some LED GU10's and it was fried within a day! The V Pro is very good but not sure if it comes in grid.

Called 'Zano' now I think, but the same product. Also, these come with a number of different faces to fit different grid systems.

I've never found a pre-formed vertical groove in one of thees walls... although the super rods make fairly short work of them!