Search results

Okay as long as the OP has the correct tools and skills to make this joint properly. Probably less room for error using the Wagos. I do trust the Wagos and would be happy to leave it under the floor if needs be!

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/WA173.html http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/WAGOBOX.html

If you have space then how about using a TP board with single phasing kit. Loads of room and looks good! RCBO's usually cost a bit more though so not a cheap option.

Not illegal but definitely a violation of common sense.

Good point...! I just assumed (I know, should never assume...) that the hob is gas and that the plug was just for the ignition.

It doesn't matter if the cable is a larger csa than the minimum size required for a protective device. It may matter if it is too small. See what the manufacturers instructions for the oven say and follow that. There will be a way to do it using the existing wiring.

If its a dedicated cooker circuit then put the appropriately rated MCB / fuse in at the CU. Or just wire it into the cooker connection unit, as long as the cable from the oven to the ccu is appropriately sized then it should be fine, it can't be overladed.

I do agree, and I have trialled out some other lamps in that price range and they were terrible, hence why at present I will only specify Philips Master. But, as I said, the customer bought these and I was impressed for the price, much better than the others I have tested at this price.

I have to say, I installed some of these for a customer the other day (customer bought the lamps) and I was impressed. They were the warm white, and although I am a staunch advocate of Philips Master at the present time, these are very good cheaper alternative, though I would still go for...

I have used these without issue (albeit the 10W version), and yes they should be fine on a standard transformer. I think it would be worth trying a different transformer. Are you dimming them? Some dimmers work better than others with these lamps. This works really well with these lamps...

Which lamp is it, exactly?

That's if you're a member of the IET, otherwise it's £210.

http://electrical.theiet.org/books/e-books/domestic.cfm

Just to make it clear, my comment was purely in relation to the tone and impatience of your posts, nothing else. (As others have pointed out). I understand that things can come across differently when spoken in person and when written in say a forum or text or email, but there appeared to be...

Not if it's wired as a ring.

Sounds like incorrect polarity at the new consumer unit or supply to consumer unit. Try checking the polarity with a proper voltage tester or multi meter.

Flameport, could I have some of your patience and tolerance please?!

I'm surprised they didn't find the fault when they tested the circuit they were about to add on to.

The ducting won't provide any mechanical protection but if it's buried under slab then I wouldn't worry too much about it! You could use Hi-Tuf or N-YYJ, but my preference would be SWA. Make sure the ducting is a nice straight run!

Depends on what route the cable is taking, buried, surface... If it's being buried then may as well run it in SWA.