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No problem Don't worry about it we all do it some time or another and it's easy done I've done it before when someone's asked questions about plastering (my trade) and made myself look a bit of a tit in the process

Thanks ree Do you have any suggestion as to how I can get around the issue ?

Edit feel like a clown now

I agree would be the best solution however without moving the door then it isn't possible and also the room is only 1.4m wide so unfortunately I have no room to spare and that's without olasterboards and tiles

Sorry about that In your first reply I re quoted in answering what I thought were questions for me to answer like are they chipboard or t&g etc The picture was added shortly after the op to hopefully give you guys a better idea of my issue Crossed wires I think

After mulling over the issue can anybody see a problem with cutting a small section on the bottom plate on the stud wall to enable me to cut a small access hole (big enough to get my hand in to do the alteration) Then brace the floorboards that will be cut spanning across a couple more...

I have answered all questions in the quote thanks

I have already thought of that but no access from below Well I say no access because again most of the house has just been done I think the Mrs would go mad Here's a picture as you look at it the joist is directly to the left of the pipe

Re fitting bathroom and replacing rad with a suitably sized towel rad It's staying along the same wall as the existing rad was but slight different location The wall is a timber stud wall so the plan was to bring the pipes up in the wall and run to rad using angled valves BUT...

I do have a plan I need to recess the back to allow for the extra depth of the valve the remainder will be built up with shallow false wall to accommodate the rest As the back end is approx 30mm deeper than advised I have alowence for the original 55_68mm depth but I can't move the bath...

Due to receiving a larger than expected or advised shower valve I need to know if I can chase a 30mm deep 50mm wide channel in a double brick wall that does not have a cavity between Thanks

True but her indoors wants it this way All really need to know if if I can chase a 30mm channel vertically about 50mm wide in a double brick wall (no cavity) without worry

Anyone

Currently refitting my very small bathroom and have purchased a concealed theemostatic mixer and head kit Having spoken with the company regarding recess clearance before I purchased (space is at a massive premium) to make sure I could do what I wanted I was assured the recess needed was...

Good on you for standing up for yourself I get sick of hearing people who have bad work done and are pressured by dodgy tradesmen to pay up These fly by traders should be well and truly hunted down and stopped it gives the rest of us a bad name

With paper tape you have to bed it in with the compound under the tape otherwise as you have noticed you get bubble It's in essence the same as a bit of blown skimming Just be careful to make sure you get enough compound under the tape so the when you apply pressure on top with trowel it...

Yes cut back 45° or so back into the cove if it's not 100% use a rasp or file to fettle it a bit On shorter lengths if you use the method of marking the wall and ceiling just cut your piece to length and hold it in position and mark the ceiling edge where the pencil lines cross you then...

In that case you will probably be better served to scribe the corner Cut it at 45 as a normal mitre and cut back the opposite way on the back with a coping saw or similar Try it first with a bit of scrap bit it should get it near enough to be able to run a bit of the adhesive or filler...

What's the position your at at the minute? Have you stuck any lengths up and mitred any corners in the room in question yet? As this will impact the way to go about it? It wasn't clear in the op