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Good question. It doesn't.

Absolutely. That's why I was wary about putting anything in that safe zone... which, as it turns out, is not a safe zone for probably that reason. :) That said, I now I have absolutely no idea how to I can get this earth bonding to the incoming water pipe. Solid floor, with the stairs...

Oh cripes. You're right. Sorry. I've seen wiring behind skirtings previously, and just though it was legit. I assumed the 150mm applied to the bottom, as well as the edges of all walls. Thanks a lot.

I’m going to have to run the water supply earth bonding along the safe zone along the bottom of a wall in the kitchen. The wall is a brick wall, dry lined, with approx. 1.5” thick battens. I really don’t like having to use this bit of the safe zone (especially for earth bonding) so I’m looking...

I’m going to be rendering the alcove in which our wood-burning stove will live. Lime (1:3 with sharp sand?) seems like the way to go. I have a large bag of hydrated lime in a shed which is pretty waterproof, but it does get a little damp from time to time. The bag has been in there for about...

OK, I'm off shopping. Thanks to all for your advice today.

Before I go shopping for this stuff, would these be any better than the £35 ones from screwfix? Ta. http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SMTGV205.html

When I explained the idea of having "that switch" at the socket rather than in the cellar to my GF, she was all over it. :) So, given that, and the fact an RCBO would take a week to get here (I want to do it this weekend), I'll recognise you're probably technically correct, but leave as is...

There's no flat place to cut it! :) It's all moulded with knockouts for cable entry. The back is the only flat bit.

Hi. The CU is in the cellar, so the plan was to put the RCD out where you can reset it quicker if it does trip.

Oh! I had no idea the threads were the same :)

How do you terminate SWA into a conduit box? Do you not need a flat surface for the gland?