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Using web cams to catch burglars is a great idea, using them to spy on tradesmen,cleaners,babysitters etc. isn't. Some people aren't in the slightest bit nosey, but most people are. I think its fair to say that nobody likes being spied on, nobody likes people snooping about in their property...

Those central posts need to be taken out quite often, especially if its a double bowl sink. I usually drop the sink into the centre of the carcass, It's up to the kitchen designer to try and get the carcass as central to the window as possible. rarely will you get window, sink, and carcass...

As for adhesive . I'd use gripfill, but silicone would also do the job.

I know that the grey plaster used on laths has lots of coal dust in it, or at least in Wales it dose, but it would be coated with a white top coat. If you have exposed undercoat plaster I would pva it then fill with filler or maybe re-skim.

I use the same drill for mixing plaster,core drilling, and chiselling . It's a cheapish b&q job. I've done about ten 110mm holes, and mixed tonnes and tonnes of plaster with it, and it's still going strong. It dose take ages to do the core drilling tho, as the ratchet keeps kicking in.

That's great. Thanks Heatingman.

Thanks kirkgas. While I was trying to get the thread started again you replied. please ignore my last post, and thanks for your information. Cheers

Maybe I should have put it on the plastering forum :?

I need to chase in some pipework for a radiator. are there any do's and don't . is trunking needed? I'm concerned about expansion if I were to plaster directly onto the pipes. also I understand bonding coat plaster is harmful to copper pipe. Is universal one coat ok to use? Thanks.

I've used those Triton Superjaws. Awesome piece of kit.

Thanks for the infomation woody. I guess I'll have to pick them up and try them out and see which one feels good. And then there's the shape and size to consider. At least I dont have to worry about the toughened edge now. Cheers

To any Brickies out there. I'm looking to buy a bricklaying trowel, I noticed WHS do a left handed trowel, and being a cack hander myself I wondered if the L/H R/H thing was important. Even tho I haven't done much in the way of laying bricks so far, I do intend learning and I don't see much...

Hi Gary. I'm no expert either, but is the mixture thick enough? If it's looser than the readymix stuff then things may get messy. personally I dab the stuff onto the wall,then flatten it with the ungrooved part of the trowel , then when it's reasonably flat I comb it with the grooved part of the...

I don't think you have to pay lots for a circular saw. I bought mine from b&q (Maxworks) It was pretty cheap and I've used it regularly for several years now.

I'm not sure if the bosch pmf 180 e is available in 110v. I've got one and I find it a pretty useful tool. tho I've been told it's nowhere near as good as the fein.

Roughcasters post is excellent, but if you want to save a few quid, rip the laths off, nail or screw plasterboard onto the wooden studs, and then call someone in to skim it, or have a go yourself, and call someone in to skim on top of your effort if your not happy with the finish. good luck.

Ahh! Thats better. As JJ said use hardwall first , then personally I'd use ready mix jointing compound/cement. This can be applied then sanded, re-applied and sanded etc. so that it feathers into the original wall finish.

Hi Adam. Are you saying you want to get rid of the skirtings and have walls that run down to the floor? If so there'll be a lot of finishing to be done. It's not a smart idea to get rid of skirting boards.

The BG guy suggested to have a powerflush, and admitted with BG it's very expensive so go elsewere. only boiler repair was covered by her insurance. Thanks for the replies fellas. I'll suggest a chemical flush to her. Cheers.

I guess they must be on a callout bonus