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Ok, I've just tried the calculator and got the following: Required Cable Size 1 mm Voltage Drop 0.166 Volts. Percentage Drop 0.072% Current Load 1.00 Amps Max Cable Load* 13.0 Amps So on this assumption, I could use 1.5mm to give a safety margin?

Because the reason users such as me register for a forum like this is to ask and receive advice. If I was an electrician, the links would be useful but I'm not - I'm a competent DIYer looking for assistance so that I can get this simple issue implemented correctly. I appreciate the links that...

My intention is to proceed and do this regardless of your sarcasm and patronising responses. Therefore, would you kindly do me the courtesy of simply answering this basic question. At present, I'll be proceeding with 2.5mm from the FCU to the appliance this weekend, I would appreciate if you...

I'm now running the cabling for this extractor and will use the FCU method advised earlier in this thread, spurring from the mains ring. Here are the electrical stats for the Cooker Hood: Could someone advise on an appropriate cable weight to run from the FCU to the appliance? Could I run...

I'm now running the cabling for this extractor and will use the FCU method advised earlier in this thread, spurring from the mains ring. Here are the electrical stats for the Cooker Hood: Could someone advise on an appropriate cable weight to run from the FCU to the appliance? Could I run...

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Can someone guide me on the mix requirements and process to scratch coat a small external block-work extension, including any waterproofing substance to add to the cement?

Can anyone help here? I need advice on what products to buy from my local yard, plasticier etc, and then the mix ratios?

Great information above and I'm about to do the same to my small utility extension build with single block - but I'm a total noob. I'm good with general DIY but haven't tried rendering before and need some help regarding the scratch coat onto which I want to pebble dash. Do I need to use a...

Sounds good - so you'd use Scrim over Tape? Also, do you place the scrim flat across the joins or push it a little into the gap itself? I've left 3mm in most parts.

I totally agree - ok I'll press on :D Thanks for the help.

The expensive hoods all just state "150mm Duct", they don't really go into detail although I haven't been able to thoroughly check a manual yet.

I'm refitting my kitchen and have just fitted a 2m rectangular 125mm duct to provide a new island cooker hood with an external extraction route - however having now looked at some hoods, many seem to require 150mm ducting? For such a short run, does this matter and can I simply use a reducer...

Thanks again for your help, really appreciate it. Just to confirm, if I were to prep with jointing compound, would I not be better using Scrim rather than Tape so that the jointing mix goes through the scrim and deep into the joint? Having spoken with the plasterer, he's already said that...

Thanks for your quick reply. I do trust my plasterer but its a big ceiling and I want to make sure that he's doing it right. If you were doing it, would you just scrim and skim or would you use a jointing mix first, let it dry, then skim?

So I just finished putting up a new plasterboard ceiling in my kitchen - I intend to get my plasterer to skim the whole thing but before doing so should I use jointing tape and jointing plaster or is the same effect and strength achieved when he scrims and skims?[/u]

That's my intention, hence step 3 of applying the white cement onto which I'll pebbledash...in theory :D but I want to make sure that what I do underneath is going to waterproof the building.

All, I've just had my old utility room roof raised up to a decent height so that I can convert it into a split small bathroom and utility room. The extension is blockwork built and pebbledashed up to where the new bricks start. My builder has left it as pictured below and I'm wondering how...