Search results

Haha, you know what - I love the idea!! I'll print this thread and put it behind the plasterboard :D

Just found this: - Either, lamp capacity does not exceed 150 Watts per light fitting and the lighting automatically switches off when there is enough daylight and when it is not required at night; - or the lighting fittings have sockets that can only be used with lamps having an efficacy...

Thanks all for the responses - so can I install these for instance? http://www.wickes.co.uk/120w-twinspot-pir-floodlight/invt/702841/ At 120w it is very low power and so would be fine on my existing lighting circuit, but should I attach an FCU inline even thought my CU is RCD protected...

Thanks chaps, the hardest part about DIYNot is knowing who to listen to :D but I'm with the latter posts, its been there since 1927...if it was going to fail it would have by now :D p.s. I scrawled 'Ash was ere' on the lnitel for whomever uncovers it next, its not a discovery unfortunately hehe.

Hi all, I want to install a PIR style light outside overlooking my garden, I'm in the midst of kitchen renovation and so have the opportunity to put in a nice neat switch in the kitchen that allows me to turn it on and off etc. My questions are: - If I were to use a 500watt/1000watt...

Hi building experts! I've just stripped the plaster from the walls of my 1927 kitchen/diner to expose the brickwork, its exposed a lintel that's above my patio doors - the house has been standing since 1927 and so at first I wasn't too concerned about the cracks visible down the length of the...

You and xblack certainly have a lot in common...I think I'll stick with my earlier intention - ignore you both and take note of Richard's advice, theres very obviously a good reason that he has so many 'Thanks' compared to you two clowns!

Sorry peaps but you're not explaining yourself clearly. Why do the battens need attention? They're solid and level - they're not absolutely spaced evenly due to having to find good fixing points into the brick, but I'll mark their locations before fitting plasterboard. I'm not moving the...

How does it make the outside corners easier? Surely you still need to go through a similar process? I think it'll be fine - I can take just over an inch off the door and then line the frame with some additional finished wood onto which I'll reattach the door, its only the 'cupboard under the...

Chaps - here's some photos specifically of the chimney breast, having reviewed some other posts throughout the forum in similar context it would appear that rendering (lime or otherwise) and skimming the chimney is possibly the best step forward, but I'm confused as to whether I can continue...

Yes the fireplace will be used but not as an open fire, the plan is to fit a wood burning stove into the fireplace, so does this still affect the wall covering? I need to get the chimney smoke tested to show whether or not it needs lining. I have considered not plasterboarding the chimney...

Agreed, I'm going to stick with Fibre because its far stronger, and hasn't shown in any of my past plastered rooms (my plasterer's good though!). So...if for any reason any of my boards have a gap between them, fill first, then scrim, then skim right?

Thanks Rich, I'll carry on as I am then, its bloody hard work but will be worth the end result!. Peaps I can see what you're saying with regards to strengthening the joints, in which case I'll leave a gap for plaster to sit into. What do you mean about self-adhesive scrim though? Aren't they...