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Riz do it or get it done my way materials £20 ish, then you control oven and hob via cooker switch above worksurface but if a fault develops in either appliance you can disconnect them without taking them out of the units etc

but then if a fault develops you will lose all your cooking facility, my way you could disconnect one or other to allow you to use something.

hey hang on ban, your assuming Riz has an outlet plate behind the cooker, i was thinking there was a cable just coiled behind the oven, and my extra cooker control unit would be in the cupboard alongside the oven, so if in the future the oven was tripping an RCD or the hob ignition was going to...

well ban as lots of diyers on this site use tlc i thought i wouldnt confuss them by calling them anything else

ban was making me fluff my words

sorry RIz

Riz why dont you do what i suggested earlier, put the 6mm cable into a new cooker control unit under the worksurface, it has nice large terminals which will take the 6mm, take a new piece of 6mm from the outgoing terminals to your oven and put a PLUG TOP (for ban) onto the hob flex and plug it...

ban, PrenticeBoyofDerry was saying Riz could split the feed for the oven and hob, therefore why not put the 6mm cable into a double socket if the oven was 13A, which is what i thought he was getting at, come back in on this Prentice

Is there any way that I can connect the hob ignition to the same supply as the cooker or do I have to drop another spur from the 13a supply side of the cooker socket to below the worktop height. ban, Riz was asking if she could use the existing supply cable to feed both the oven and the hob...

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Wiring_Accessories_Menu_Index/Plugs_Tops/index.html ban just for your information a 13A plug is refered to as a plug top

sorry ban, i must be bonkers, Riz says she wants to put a larger type oven that may need a 6mm cable to feed it, she also has a flex coming from the gas ignition. if she has a 6mm cable underneath the worksurface at the moment switched via a cooker control unit above the worksurface please tell...

is there a socket nearby

thats ok, well you need a neutral connection, is there a socket outlet under the 4 gang switch or nearby? you may have to feed of a socket then take a switch wire up to your 4 gang switch, or just switch it from a spur unit alongside the socket your feeding off

sorry Riz i may not have understood you, if the flex coming from the hob is too short to reach the socket of the cooker control unit fit a junction box and a new piece of flex so it reaches

you said there was a block with blue cables in it??????

you then take this supply to your PIR then from the PIR to your new lights, most PIRs have a pulse over ride so you can switch the lights on continously for parties etc then back to detector mode at night

well you need to prove this is a neutral realy but it sounds if it is, you take the blue of your feed cable to this block and your brown into the L1 terminal of your new switch, and take a link of cable from a permenant live terminal in one of the other switches to the C terminal of your new...

so the oven and hob are both wired into the new cooker control unit under the worksurface i mean, this will then free up the socket in your existing cooker control unit above the worksurface

is there a connector block within the back box with two or more blue cables in it? this would a neutral connection

well Breen it all depends if there is a neutral connection inside your 4/6 gang switch more often than not there isnt, you will have to open it up and have a look and let us know whats there. what do your existing 4 switches control, Paul