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Hi all, I’m sick to death of unreliable tradesman, constantly letting me down, so much so that I’m having a go at routing worktops myself. They are actually for an office and are the white 1860mm x 615mm x 28mm thick ones from IKEA (slightly rolled edge). I don’t have a jig, so which one do I...

I thought hardwall was the “appropriate” product to use in this case. From what I’ve taken off the walls so far it just looks like sand/cement render. This wall will only have dado trunking stuck to it, so if dot’n’dab dab pboard will work, then it’s certainly an easier option for me. Too many...

For me, I like to think I gauge firmly between DIYer and semi-pro. I have “most of the gear and a good idea”. Recently showed a friend how to plaster, gave him enough confidence and we skimmed about 40sqm of walls and ceiling together and did a really good job as we’re both fusspots when it...

Hi all, So I”m renovating my brothers house, built in 1901. It has double skin brick wall, no cavity. I’ve been told NOT to dot’n’dab plasterboard as the moisture could travel through the bricks, through the board adhesive and into the plastered walls(?). However, about 12 yeas ago he had the...

Hi all, So I”m renovating my brothers house, built in 1901. It has double skin brick wall, no cavity. I’ve been told NOT to dot’n’dab plasterboard as the moisture could travel through the bricks, through the board adhesive and into the plastered walls(?). However, about 12 yeas ago he had the...

Hi, wasn’t sure which forum to post this in, so here goes. I need about 1.5sqm of electric underfloor heating for my bathroom. Been advised that the IR stuff is quite good. I’ve recently replaced the floorboards with 22mm chipboard (green stuff from B&Q). I have LVT as the finished floor which...

Hi all, I’m keen to have another go at float & set, but in the current climate where gypsum products are as rare as rocking horse doo doo, should I got for a sand and cement render rather than hardwall (which I’ve been using and since ran out of)? The walls are back to brick but with no cavity...

Hi all, So I’ve routed an ogee profile for my own MDF skirting. I’ve used 2 coats of Leyland acrylic undercoat and primer and then 2 coats of brilliant white quick dry water based gloss. I used a gloss roller for undercoat and gloss. I lightly sanded the end/open edges after each coat, and it’s...

I’m through, I’m through!! Christ, don’t wanna do that again.

Hi guys, So back on site. I used the 8mm pilot bit on its own to hammer drill through, which was only about 30mm or so. Then I removed it and continued with the core bit on its own. It’s very slightly better, going approx 1mm every 2min(?) which sucks. The pics probably don’t show much that...

Yes, I actually agree with this. So I shall remove the pilot bit and carry on. I have a feeling I’ll make progress this time. Thanks for the advice on the DeWalt cdbe, I won’t buy a new drill at all now. As once this soil pipe has been cored I’ll not need any more holes.

I‘ve not been on site today, but thinking about it, and as daft as it might seem to some, I’ve left the 8mm pilot bit in. Some say you are supposed to take it out once the core has actually bitten in. If this is the ‘best practice’ then maybe the 8mm bit is snagging on a pebble (or whatever) in...

Standing on a ladder to connect a soil pipe elbow isn’t the same as trying safely balance on a ladder to core drill through a brick wall that’s probably been re-barred with adamantium! Most hire shops aren’t open right now. I’ll persevere.

B*ll* ! :( Looks like I’ll have to persevere then. Oh and the half price DeWalt I saw on a website.....old page they hadn’t taken down. Dirty trick to get you to register with them.

So, having done a bit of research, the DeWalt D21570k gets good reviews and is half price at one place. It’s non-SDS though, so would I have to rebut my core bits?

Thanks guys. So, the clutch does save my wrist as it engages quite a lot if I go off-centre. There are no big chunks of debris in the way. When I pull the core bit out there is minimum amount of dust inside the bit, that’s mainly because it doesn’t seem to be biting into the brick. I did notice...

It’s this erbauer set of 3 from Screwfix. https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-diamond-core-drill-kit-8-pcs/96229 They’re all maybe 150mm long(?) First time I’ve used the soil pipe bit. Bricks are dry. I’m part way through the outer brick course now. Edit: weird! The link to Screwfix keeps taking...

So, Using my Makita HR2230 with a brand new Erbauer 117mm core bit to go through a double skin brick wall, no cavity (house built in 1901). The wall is about 280mm thick and I’m about 230mm in, but I’m now getting nowhere. I keep stopping the drill and drawing a pencil line at the back of the...

Hi, yes i did know that the sides are what you level up to. :D Having a few days off now so will test it when I get back.

Well, that was a flippin nightmare. I screwed down some 6mm ply the same size as the tray. Painted some P131 on. Went downstairs, put levelling compound on the kitchen floor. Went back upstairs mixed the whole back of mapei adhesive, spread it using a notched trowel, laid the shower tray, but I...