Search results

Yeah that’s fair enough, I’ll defer to your wisdom

Thanks fellas. I bought some mapei flexible adhesive. The guy said they sell a lot of that for shower tray installs, so, ya know!? I’m hoping that the newly laid 22mm moisture resistant chipboard floorboards, after having a coating of pva AND P131 will suffice.

Thanks again. But what’s so wrong with using plasterboard adhesive? It’s probably not flexible but then neither is mortar and that’s the recommended method. I’m more curious about it than adamant if you know what I mean.

Thanks Johnny, The floor is pretty even so that doesn’t concern me. Is the stuff you use flexible tile adhesive? I’m still wanting to use drywall adhesive as I have a full bag just begging to be used.

If you mix your bonding fairly thin then why not give it a go? If you balls it up, then just wait for the multifinish to come back in stock so you can go over the bonding with a proper skim finish.

Will you be painting the Finished wall? I found recently that I was playing around whilst bonding a bathroom wall, and I got it really flat and smooth, it was almost a shame to skim over it. I imagine if painted or papered it would look just as good as if skimmed.

Hi all, So got a 1000 x 800 concrete/acrylic shower tray to be installed straight onto 22mm moisture resistant chipboard floorboards (not using marine ply). I’ve actually used FBall P131 as a barrier/sealer. I put it on a 5:1 bed of mortar, but it failed me (came back following day and it just...

Ok, got this sorted now guys thanks. The far end of the room was the highest point, but to level the rest to it would mean bringing the near end up by well over an inch and above the actual outside door threshold (which I’d already raised when I first saw the state of the floor, but not enough...

Hi all, I’m using stopgap 1200 pro to level an approx 10sqm kitchen floor, but where do I start the pour? I’m expecting the smoothing layer to be up to 10mm deep in some areas, but can’t be sure because I don’t know where the lowest part of the floor is as it’s quite undulating. There is a rise...

I’ve checked the threads they ‘look’ fine. They are fully tightened. Locktite55 does seem better than ptfe, but I put quite a bit of that onto not sure why the cold has decided to start leaking very slightly after a day of being ok. ‍♂️

There is no olive. If you look at the pics of the valve (previous post) the 22mm compression just screws into the valve. I’ve tried tightening it with nothing and it leaked, so I tried ptfe and it leaked. When I got to site this morning I re-wrapped the 22mm thread with locktite55 and it...

Hi all, I’m back. Well I’ve had some fun with this lot, but I think I’m on track. I replaced the inlet 22mm fittings with 22-15mm reducers. However the cold inlet weeps very slightly. I nipped it up, still weeped. I took it off, replaced the ptfe I’d previously applied with locktite55 and put it...

Thanks Muggles. I actually thought I’d bought 22mm-15mm reducers in the bundle I purchased. I’ll check my order. But yes, those would be better. I used loctite55 on the threads. I get fed up of hearing the arguments about when and when not to use tape, so I just do it as a default. Can’t hurt I...

Just to add to my OP. The idea is that brother can slide open the shower door and turn the shower on from the controls of the left without getting cold water splashing onto him as the shower heads are on the right of the 1000mm shower. He has cancer so he’d as much comfort (and little distress)...

Hi all, So completely refitting my brothers bathroom. Got a 800 x 1000 shower enclosure. Concealed 2-way mixture valve which I’ve fitted. As you can see the inlets are 22mm. I suppose I need to just use reducers to 15mm? For arguments sake the top left outlet will go up and above the new...

Lol, that’s why I’m here.......looking for advice confirmation. ‍♂️

imagine this, but with the rainfall and handheld on the opposite wall. my original post was in case I couldn’t fit the depth of a concealed valve within the cavity space I have available.

No, it’s yet to be built. However the wall that will house the control valve is lathe and plaster. I ‘may’ be able to install a fully concealed valve, but cavity space is tight, I need to do some really accurate measuring and with a 12mm tile backer board and then a 10mm shower panel in front of...

Yes, but you are aware that I want the controls on one wall and the rainfall head and handheld on the opposite wall of a 1000 x 800 shower?

Well yes, but as most of those seem to have a flexihose connector which leads to the shower head, I’d effectively have to connect a pipe instead of the flexihose and route that back into the wall and under and up the opposite side to the shower head and diverter shower hose. That make sense?