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sorry gravity old style system and I just want to tee off a really close 22mm hot water supply pipe. All I need to know is how to cut existing pipe and somehow get a 22mm tee in the gap Ive cut which will be only about an inch wide . This will be tricky as pipe run is rigid and clamped to joists...

a long way away - different room I only have 15mm hot pipe near the new one and really need 22mm bath hot supply dont I or will 15mm give a decent flow rate ???

hi gents, can anyone help me I want to tee off existing 22mm hot water supply for new bath but the pipe is clamped and Im worried that I wont be able to get the 22mm copper tee in place whilst existing pipework stays in situ Im sure this is a standard problem that you plumbers come across...

Thanks mate - your replies are very much appreciated

thanks - is 3/4" meant to refer to the 22mm tap connecting end then 3/4" is only 19mm so I thought the 3/4" connections I keep seeing wouldnt fit ?

Hi gents, just wondered if anyone can help me find what I'm looking for - Im sure you'll find it an easy question. If I explain in simple terms then you can hit me with the trade terminology, and any links would be even better :D I have 22mm tap connectors on my new bath that Im installing...

okay sorry got a bit confuzzed so I'd better go 2" through the middle of the joist then as 1" isnt enough cheers

cheers gents Ive measured the joist and its 8 inches high. so I can safely notch out up to 2 inches (50mm ish) out of the top then ? In reality I only need about 34mm so I will make it as small as poss. do you think I need to then add some stiffening brace support type battens on these...

thanks for the replies guys I'll go and get a 32mm compression coupler then cheers

Hopefully the answer is yes but do you have any suggestions for the actual; fitting I would need cheers in advance guys

I need to run 32mm waste from one side of the room to the other to get to existing waste and there is no way we can reroute etc etc som my question is; is there a better place to notch (ie nearer the supporting wall or is in the middle better) also is a hole through the middle better...

the dimensions of the room are about 16ft x 12 ft

unfortunately I have now noticed that there is an electrical consumer box on one wall and it is almost touching the current ceiling in the garage. Will I still be okay to put this kingspan board up and just cut tightly round the consumer box or is this a no no ?

can anyone tell me what boards i need to get ? Ive just tried looking them up and there are many different sorts and then severalthicknesses to choose from. Do I just need the thinnest ones like these >>> http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/KINGSPAN-INSULATION-BOARDS-18-...

so would the ultimate warmth and sound deadening scenario be both ??? if so I might go for that then or is that too over the top ?

thanks guys so this celotex stuff - is it just a board like plasterboard type stuff ??? and are you saying that it will be ok just to screw celotex to my existing plasterboard ceiling and then replasterboard over ??? without ripping old ceiling down and adding fibreglass first ??

thanks gents - well we've already fully decorated the bedroom so dont want to take up the newly layed carpet etc - so only way really is to pull down plasterboard ceiling in garage and insulate from there before replacing plasterboard it seems . and yes there is a brand new very thick...

Hi gents - we've just moved to a new house and my daughters room is the one above our garage. The garage has a new looking plasterboard ceiling, but the floor in the bedroom above is very cold (noticeably colder than other rooms in the house) I'm happy to pull down the plasterboard ceiling in...

they're reallynot that expensive nowadays :D

.... and save some serious wonga too :-)