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Give the UFH tech support a call before getting the matting and talk to them. If it's going to work it needs the right mix of insulation beneath the mat and the right size/power of matting for whatever's going on top of it, there's no one size fits all. For a start, they'll ask you if it's going...

Not strictly regs, except where regs talk about accessibility and practicality in quite general terms. Fused spurs above the worktop are useful when the appliances are integrated into the kitchen units; in this case the electrical connection can be behind the appliance and so it's difficult...

Don't be so myopic, BAN. The things you describe are already happening in the OP's loft - insulation rolled back. moisture getting in. However, a few small holes over downlighters do not appreciably affect the insulating effect of all that rockwool, and if the lighting installer did the sensible...

If you mean you're going to plug it into a 13A socket, then you'll need a plug, a 3A or 5A fuse to go in it and some 1.00mm 3-core flex if the PIR and floodlight are an integral unit. If they are two separate items it probably gets a bit more complicated. PJ

Tell the installers you expect them to leave open space above the lights. If you have the time you could get some suitably wide drainpipe, cut to length, and stand it over the lights so the insulation layers can fit round them. PJ

Have you got a gas hob? The sparker is usually plugged in to something hidden in a cupboard or even behind the oven, and when you're looking for an electrical fault it's easy to overlook a gas appliance ... And yes, it can sometimes be a socket that goes rogue and causes the tripping. pj

If you've got that amount of depth to work with and, presumably, a void behind, can you work in a piece of batten across the hole, screw through the wall either side of the hole to fix the batten, then use a standard 25mm knockout box screwed to the batten. PJ

Quie acceptable way of doing things. 1mm cable would be enough. Either separated or daisy-chained is fine - presumably you want them to work separately rather than together? PJ

1 - price on the assumption that everything will be OK, but make sure (in writing) that the customer understands that things can and do appear once you start work and these can add to the bill. Then when you're doing the job, if anything comes up tell them right away, tell them what you plan to...

If the existing spur is in the loft there's a chance that spur is off the lighting circuit, put there for a TV booster. If that's the case it's not a good idea to spur on further to a power socket which might, for instance, get the vacuum plugged into it. Alternatively, the spur in the loft...

Even if they were 5W that would mean that with them all on you'd only just hit the bottom level of the transformer's requirements. Better to get a purpose-built LED driver version. PJ

If you use a sealant as per your link, you'll be sticking the light fitting to the ceiling, which will make repairs and lamp changes later on difficult without damaging the ceiling. get fire-rated light fittigns whcih come with an intumescent seal ring which does the same job. PJ

You can check if there are two immersions by looking for the wiring. If there's a night-time main heater and a daytime boost, you should find a cable going to an immersion connection at the bottom of the water tank; the idea is that this comes on when you have cheap rate electricity in the...

Yes it's easy (for a sparky) - don't worry, he'll know what size cable to use. PJ

First up, the two-terminal block in a ceiling rose is usually the switched live, not the neutral, so you could have a problem there. Second, just adding a second switch won't make the light switchable - there has to be a dedicated link between the switch and the light that is being switched...

True, but it will give a near enough/good enough indicator if the divergence is as high as the OP says. If the meter is recording throughput with everything switched off, either the meter has dveloped a life of its own or something is still running - is there any way someone could have...

The lampholders won't accept mains voltage lamps for the very reason of avoiding a mix-up between LV and ELV equipment. By the time you factor in all the conversion costs, be cheaper and easier to buy a new light. PJ

There's also the question of afterwards - something doesn't work, you all him back, "nah, you did that bit, guv, nothing to do with me". As BAS says, work with the electrician, don't try to second guess someone. If you present a half-finished job most of us would turn round and walk away rather...

If he's only done domestic/commercial he may not have come across metal trunking before, so IK'll let him off that one, but something missing from his training if he's never terminated armoured, even in the classroom. PJ

Possible culprits to cause the tripping include sparker units on gas cookers, often forgotten because, hey, it's a GAS cooker, and it's always plugged in behind the cooker or in the back of a cupboard. And don't forget our old friends the outside lights and sockets, particularly with all this...