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It lives!! :mrgreen: The melted switch was still functioning identically to the new one when I tested them with a meter but the build up of melted plastic shroud must compromised the connection. Either that or it could have been the heat from the switch which had cooked the last few...

Thank you all for your help. (y) I'll report back with when I have it back together.

Thanks! One last question... It has shrouded crimp connectors. I have crimping tools but what connector should I use bearing in mind the 16 amp rating and the max possible 125c temps? I can't quite find what I'm looking for on the RS components site. I have loads of automotive equivalents...

SFK- Apologies, I entirely missed your posts with the links somehow. Do the specs on the side look reasonable compared to mine? They both say 16A and 3A so I'm guessing the 16A is the max peak (when it starts up) and 3A is the continuous rating. The switch in your second link looks perfect to...

That seems to be all that is being powered from that switch (there are three though) The thicker grey wire feeds the turntable. The other two much thinner wires go to the next switch and the other to what could be a terminal block of some kind. The lower latch trips two of the switches at...

I just looked at the wiring diagram and the grey wire that has overheated goes directly to the turntable. That seems a lot of current for a little microswitch. The grey wire is a nice thick one and the heat looks to have been very local to the switch as if the the heat was actually caused...

How strange! That's exactly what I have done. :D I did wonder about the cause. On cars I've seen stop light switches fail inside and cause that. Mind you they are often poor quality. The switch has a melted terminal pin but it did work according to the meter. I think I will risk a new...

Yes I think that is it. I checked it earlier and it has continuity across the terminals so I guess it's not that. Edit- Aha! I've just found a melted connector on the lower of the three door latch micro switches. The lower latch has two switches and this melted wire is a thick grey one...

Thanks for your reply. :) I've got the cover off now (and capacitor discharged!) And this looks like it could have caused the problem. I've cleaned the top part of the grille just for comparison. I wondered about the thermal cut outs. The manual I downloaded says there are three. I think...

I just wondered if anyone has any tips before I replace this oven. It is around 8 years old and it's as if the lights are on but nobody is home! Absolutely everything works as normal, the turntable turns and the display and all its functions act normally but there is no heat from the oven...

That fault code is for the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valve. They are not particularly reliable and can seize or fail electrically. There are other things (wiring breaks/earthing or even ECU faults that can cause that code. See http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16787/P0403/001027

Thanks for that. It's weird that it works in reverse with the led bulb fitted though.. Looking at your avatar makes me think it could be the flux capacitor! :mrgreen:

Hi everyone, had to sign up again although I've been a member since 2008. Lost my password plus email provider (Orange) which has closed down. :rolleyes: I have an outdoor hi lo lamp which has stopped working. I replaced the halogen bulb with this...