Search results

I might have jumped the gun, i'm assuming they are pvc windows. If they are these are cams, they turned by an allen key to tighten or slacken against the frame when the handle is thrown to lock position:

are you sure it's the seals? If they are casements (open out) it's more likely the hinges are not closing tightly enough, or the cams on the locking mechanisms need adjusting a little.

Doubt very much you'd be getting draughts if the gap was too small to get foam in! Fill it with foam, the foam will squirt out anyway: then when it's expanded and dry just cut the excess away, put the trims back on, and reseal. Forget about the cracks in the mortar, it won't be because of...

Use a 5mm drill and drill the whole rivet out, then use new rivets in the existing holes. Or you can use longer screws and screw deeper into the frame (be careful though if doing this for the sash as you might hit the glass unit and crack it). With the new hinges you may find not all the holes...

My company does a 10 year warranty on the glass.....but we only get a 5 year one from our glass supplier!

Must have been a very poor quality door frame if you broke it so easily. Thanks for letting everyone know to stay clear of Everglaze!! Oh and welcome to the forum :wink:

I second that, and you can easily fit them yourself. If the hinges aren't actually broken they will work a treat.

agreed, avoid the big companies, all you will do will pay extra staight into the salesmans pocket. You will definately not get a better window from them over smaller companies.

Not just a common crosshead screw holding them on?

there is absolutely no way the windows will be anywhere near 1.6 u value. sorry. Don't waste your time - you'll get a patio and window (supply only in upvc) for far less than £1500

ditto - lead outside

Internal beads and stay away from companies that produce windows that have mechanically joined transoms or mullions, make sure everything is welded.

typically on most window systems you should have around 8mm cover where the frames overlap each other - the 13-14mm gap doesn't really matter, it's the cover when the sash is locked against the frame that matters. close the opening sash and mark a pencil line around it (you'll see it better...

you still have to use the key to lock the door!!!! a night latch acts like a security chain, allowing you to open the door enough from the inside to see who is there, it restricts the opening to a couple of inches

They are correct. if the windows are white and the profile is decent quality then they won't need the outer frame reinforced (under a certain size!) We only reinforce outer frames any height or width over 1.5 metres in white, fully reinforce all foiled windows and reinforce triple glazed windows...

Theres also a chance it could be coming from the roof down through the cavity, possibly the rain and wind get under a damaged part in the tiles? Have seen this before - source of water ingress is a nightmare to find sometimes, good luck!

here it is http://www.reddiplex.com/glazing-products/reddicord-wedge-gasket there are different types, all you really need is the same thickness so that it fills the same gap that your existing one does. The link i've put up is for the type that has a cord through the core of the gasket, this...

its a common type wedge gasket, we get ours from a company called reddiplex. You'll need to buy a lot though. How much do you need and i can post you some out?

Sounds exactly like it needs toeing and heeling, someone that knows what they are doing should take between 5 mins to 30 mins depending on the type of beading and gasket.

As I said earlier, the glass is textured, so a photograph would not be a true reflection of the glass. And the only way of taking a picture would be to use a throw away camera, send it off to be processed, then get the prints back, then scan them in, then post then. So people that make idiotic...