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They are used for drop fed systems, where the pipework runs down inside partitions or in trunking on the surface, as opposed to popping up underneath the radiator.

No it doesn't i was thinking of the SI

When i calibrate a shower i set it up so the median temp is 39Deg. Fit pressure reducing valves on your H&C supplies to the shower if you want to keep your low pressure cartridge. The boiler does have a temp control on the HW function. If you want to be REALLY tight, remember to set your...

will a grundfos 15-50 not fit this???

Dunlop silicone. More expensive, but would highly reccommend it.

Will be a washer in the fov in a toilet.

Wouldn't call working for a company like british gas a cushy number. Think most people are trying to get out of BG as the management have gone mad. Having to work shifts puts me off aswell, my weekends are my own and would never work them, unless it was for myself of course :wink: Better to...

EDIT

Corgi job. Could be a number of things, electrodes, HT leads, PCB or gas valve. Needs a RGI though as the case seals will be broken. Would put money on the PCB though.

If as you say the boiler reacts to demand for HW, I would suspect the diverter valve stuck on CH, or possibly plate Heat Ex blocked. To test, make sure you heating is cold, open the a hot tap and feel the flow pipe under the boiler. If this gets hot then your diverter is stuck, if not would...

Programmer is probably wired up incorrectly. Has this always been the case or is it a new problem. If it is gravity HW and pumped heating you shouldn't really need a motorised valve, unless you want the option of CH without heating the HW cylinder. When HW is called for the boiler...

cant go wrong with grohe tbh. Great looking showers, very reliable, and if they do go wrong you will get spare parts no probs at all. Just make sure when you buy you specify a high pressure cartidge type. TBH dont know what tony is on about....

checked the Ntc's?. if the boiler thinks the water is hot enough then it wont fire and it'll just run the pump to circulate the water. Take it this is happening on both heating and HW?

Trevi boost is an idea if you dont want to go the expense of a pump. Mixer shower, with internal venturi to boost the pressure up. Hot off the tank and a cold main supply required.

Take off the silver slotted cap of the front of the pump, cover the electrics because you will get a little bit of water out. The shaft should be spinning freely. If not, and you are carefull and confident testing 240 V, check the terminals on the pump for 240. If there is voltage present. If...

Shouldnt be too much of a problem if your working with mains pressure. Wont need PTFE as flexi tap connectors have rubber washers in to seal the joint.

Just to add to that, how long has your mother been paying her premiums for the heating cover? Poor show to have paid what i assume is a fair bit of money, for a company to look after her boiler, for them to fob her off with some poor excuse for scrapping it.

More absolute pish from BG. Dont buy anything off them, the boiler is functioning perfectly so why change it? Really riles me how these guys have the hard neck to mislead those who trust their judgement. Very VERY doubtful you'll have any bother getting WB spares in the foreseeable...

On a sealed system, drop the pressure and freeze the pipes. Probably wouldn't add any more inhibitor tbh, providing there is inhibitor in. Conventional system, bung the f+e tank. Probably an hour and a half.

So long as the boiler does not run on LPG it will be fine