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sounds about right. Easy way to prove though. Go up into your loft and check.

they should have both! flow switch to detect demand for hw and diverter valve to direct primary water to the plate heat ex.

just a confusion of terms, wouldnt call a motorised valve a diverter valve.

not a combi! nearly made that mistake myself

sounds like a failed stat

i'll give a crisp 20 for the lot. cash mind :D then again not sure if my notes are accepted widely down your end, had a lot of funny looks at my scottish notes in london!

Yep that would do the trick, although i would steer clear of the bleach. Would still advise to drain and clean the system tho, as the blockage suggests theres a good bit of rubbish in there. Has the system been drained since 1997? Even so, would recommend draining, filling and adding X300...

yes, remove the heat ex and remove all the loose debris from it. Use a descaler on the primary side (connected to the main heat ex) , as this will be the side that is blocked. Wouldn't hurt to drain and cleanse your htg system as well, as this is probably dirty too. I think what Tony ment by a...

beat me to it!

plate heat exchanger ? dont see very many aristons up my way but seems like you've ruled out every other possibilty.

take it you mean the actual pin and not the whole air vent? Turn the valves off either side of your rad, get an old sheet and put it on the floor under the air vent, take it out using a spanner or a set of grips and replace with new. be prepared to get a bit of water out and have the...

yes sorry, perhaps my advice was bad advice. Thermistors can also lose callibration which will give you a resistance, but not a correct one. As slug said above, the manufacturer have tables which detail the corect resistance present for a given temperature. Unfortunate you had to shell out but...

This doesn't really make sense. All the back boilers i have twinned into htg systems have been woodburning stoves, which people are attracted to as it reduces their gas consumed, albeit the savings are minimal. Obv this wouldn't be the case in your situation as your back boiler is going to be...

probably less hassle moving the standpipe tbh!

You could buy imperial olives for your fittings. Although what i tend to do is use the original olivees, crack the nuts up really tight so the olives get a decent grip on the pipe, remove the fitting and wrap a good few turns of ptfe round the olives. Bailed me out a lot and works everytime! :D

good choice, cracking showers. fitted one when i did my bathroom a couple of years ago. remember to fit check valves on the inlets tho!

recently had this problem on a boiler myself, turned off the flow and returns and found a leak at the boiler. took a good while to discover the secondary heat exchanger was leaking and draining through the condensate. just a heads up, might save you a bit of time! :D

wine bars :lol: think u missed that mate

i am assuming the boiler isnt firing up at all, as opposed to firing up and locking out. does the LED flash quickly ( 5 times per second) or slower?

yeah i read it in phpi a while ago, i think the jist of it was the cylinder stat had failed and boiling water was venting into the cw storage tank, which wasn't properly supported. the tank started to melt, thus leak. long and short of it, water damage to ceiling whic brought it down followed by...