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I dont want it lit all the time, only during power outages, when credit runs out (went in the middle or the night once had to fumble about in the dark for key to release em credidt till i could get to the shops in the morning) and so I can switch in on for meter crediting and reading.

So do I need a double pole switch or just a normal single pole one way light switch? and which light do I need? http://www.screwfix.com/prods/87042/Lighting/Commercial-Industrial/Emergency-Lighting/Eterna-Emergency-Luminaire-Non-Maintained or...

Great, cheers :D

I'm building a new meter cuboard and want to fit an emergency light in it so it shines on the meter and cu if theres a power failure. Do I need maintatined or non-maintained? I also want to fit a switch so I can switch it on for meter reading ect

I've seen worse than venting into loft space, venting into a cavity. Extractor fans fitted in bathrooms with a shower with no outside wall, back to back on a row of 4 bed semis I rewired, if they aligned them better they'd have blown the steam into next doors bathroom.

True but you can just make out whats wrote on that switch is top left L top right cannot be seen but if its N its a double pole isolator switch bottom left L bottom right N

SWA usually has the size and number of cores moulded into the cable, can you leek at the cable and post this up?

When I had my meter changed I asked the installer from the MOP (Meter+) to fit a Wylex REC2S isolator I'd got from the DNO (NEDL/YEDL/CE), he didn't know how to do it :shock: also complained when I gave him 25mm tails to use and refused to replace the old 16mm tails with brand new harmonised...

Obvious but make sure no one in one of the 5 flats above flushes the toilet, empties the bath, ect :wink:

Angle grinder saved the day, carefully cut right through it with a 1mm plasma disc then lightly tapped it out with a hammer

I'm replacing the waste on my cast iron bath as it has no overflow fitted :roll: it used brass fittings and lead pipe. I managed to remove the p trap and pipework but not the original waste outlet as I couldn't get the large brass nut that fastens the waste to the bath undone. I've tried...

there's a bodge used on truck wheel arches you could use Drill a hole at each end of the crack to stop it spreading then drill holes opposite each other 1/2" apart and 1" across the crack use tywraps/cable ties to stitch the crack together but don't tighten them fully spread silicone...

I've got one of these in a drawer somewhere My Grandad's CBM 9r25 from when he was an engineer at ICI along with a few slide rules

JB the circuits, thats what I did when I replaced 2 CU's and a 1way insulated switch fuse board with 12 way split load CU, fortunately the CU's were under the stairs. I JB'd the wires under the floor on the hall landing and under the floor below the CU and used the existing henley block for the...

Thats what I do

I need to bond my gas and water mains do I take these back to the board remove the earth connector block and earth the incoming feeds back to the board or connect the gas and water earth to the earth connector block From the board to the earth connector block and from there to the outer...

On a couple of rewires I was doing for the council in a bathroom with no windows or other method of ventilation the fan vented into the wall cavity :? Seen some strange stuff doing rewires

what's Macapline? Was a sink with a cupboard, but things have been dropped in it and it has cracked/smashed want to replace it with a pedestal and basin What waste owerflow and traps do i need for the bath and basin? need to replace the lead with PU as on the outside of the house there is...

I'm replacing the sink in the bathroom and fitting a bath overflow as the bath just has a large chrome disc the plug chain connects to instead of a overflow :s The wastes in the bathroom are all lead with soldered brass traps (fortunately the only lead piping in the house are the bathroom...