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Strictly speaking you shouldn't stick tiles to a plaster bonding coat it should always be skimmed,render would be ok but its not easy to do well and if you dont get it flat it'll look a mess when its tiled.Easy option would be to stick or screw some board to the bricks tnd tile on that...

Generally I don't although we have used some recently that the supplier recommended sealing with Lithofin stainstop apparently they had had a complaint about oil staining them on a garage floor, so its best to check. 18mm ply is good preferably screwed around 300mm centres but primed with a...

You'd be better off with a tile backer board (wedi or marmox or similar) these would be less likely to warp if they got damp and the tiles should bond better to them without a primer.Not sure about unibond adhesive I'd make sure its a class AA and also check with the supplier of the mirror tiles...

Should dry cut fine you can always roll the wheel back and forward a few times over the ends if there's any need.Major problem i find with this type of tile is trim at external corners especially if you're fixing them brick bond because trim depth that suits the edges isn't deep enough for the...

Yep we've used it, if the floor is 3/4 ply and solid I wouldn't bother,It acts as a separating layer to isolate the tiles from stress in the subfloor but its not much use if the floor is bouncing up and down.Use a good single part flexible adhesive.I would recommend Ardex 7001,not cheap but good...

At least 10 mm and then you'll probably have to butter some of the backs.The substrate is never as flat as it seems and with large format porcelain the slightest uneveness will give unsightly lips. Is the plasterboard skimmed because strictly speaking you may have a weight problem.