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A survey all you get is few cut and pasted words, a few pictures, and pages and pages of get out clauses. No wonder they charge you the money before you see the report.

I recently took down a chimney, where the flashing looked fine, if a little old. However just under the flashing, once it was taken below roof level, it was sopping wet!

Another 280 here too, serious rip off.. Cant understand why, plenty of space to dump the stuff. Water is also expensive, cant see why either as there is a lot of it.

Ah of course solid floor.. i was thinking timber. Was also wondering why sand/cement was a no no too? Good luck, sorry i cant help :)

Interesting you say that removing the airbrick has stopped the damp, by effectively removing ventilation. I would of thought reducing ventilation would of worsened the problem. I wonder if you had not lowered the floor below dpc the airbrick would of made any difference.

Mixing concrete is quite easy, if labour intensively. Make sure it's all shuttered in and dry for a few days when you do the job.

The problem with stone as you have touched on is allowing the water to escape, as it wont evaprate through waterproof renders. But the cement renders impart some strength to old walls. Perhaps its best to keep the render as suggested but ensure the wall never gets wet (not sure if that is...

Board the bathroom with foil backed plasterboard. Then tank the shower/toilet areas with a tanking kit, from somewhere like screwfix.

Bit of an update, I've now bricked up the old chimney on the top right as well, lets hope it sticks to the old lime mortar! Decided to open some of the bigger cracks in the lime and repoint, hopefully it will stop the old wall falling down. Next I will run a scratch cost over the old bricks...

Yeah, i did say it was a dogs dinner. Ill try and explain again is stages of construction. There was a stone wall built in the 1880s 24inch think into which there was a fire place. There are granite blocks up the old chimney as i looked up it. This is behind the brick wall, which is new, which...

I think 170mm is standard for new builds, but 120mm is standard for home improvements, i may be wrong perhaps someone can correct if so.

Thanks for the comments. Do i need to install the vents mentioned, bearing in mind, there is no breast left at all, no chimney on the roof, and the old chimmeny is completly concealed within the old 24 inch stone wall. The wall is an internal wall, so not exposed to the elements at all. By...

I would say its certainly worth tanking under tiling as the grout can become porus over time. I have a bit of this left over from another job, so im thinking of using it. http://www.randjbuildershardware.co.uk/ka-tanking-slurry-25kg.html Not sure if its suitable though, but it does say...

Make sure you run the combi for a few minutes with the gas off after you fill it, before you turn the gas on, to circulate the water (useful tip i got off here, thanks).

The concentrate is proably the way to go, i was surprised how much mess there was. But i did fit my plug around the wrong way after i removed the screwfix no nonsense kit, resulting i a bit of inhibitor onto the floor, doh..

top gazza, from my experience gained today id say that put the inhibitor in the rad before you connect it to the system, ie fill it direct with inhibitor, while the lockshields are closed, the rad is likely to be empty. Ive read that the capacity of an 600mm is about 1.7l per metre, but my rad...

I have removed a chimeny and the old breast, which was a dogs dinner to say the least.. consisting of a new and old fireplace. The older chimney has been bricked up, but there seems to be a second chimney that still has black soot on it, perhaps an old gas fire, there was a steel pipe as well...

Well I decided to add the inhibitor, even if only for the rest of the winter. I used that screwfix kit, using the connector at the top of the rad. I did find that each rad would not take the full 1litre, before it would allow any more in. So I had to go to another rad. Is this expected? I did...