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I meant the one that your new stud wall (or single block) is attached to, I viewed your dwg of the existing opening as from the outside. Just re-read your first post, you do say viewed from the inside :oops: That ones 650mm anyway and you're not altering it and it's original so i wouldn't...

The only one I can see from the measurements you give is the one you want to reduce from 580mm to 385mm on your existing wall. If you changed your proposed new stud wall to a 300mm cavity you would achieve the return you need.

If you have a full plan application then that's what you have to use. 40mm seems very thin, especially over such a large area, but how good are the company? They should know what they're talking about so perhaps 40mm will do? I don't think UFH would be a good idea in such a thin screed...

The returns on your drawing are 740mm. 650mm from the furthest corner so the minimum internal length of the return on a 300mm cavity wall would be 350mm if that makes sense. As I said I have no SE calcs or regs to back me up, just that my building inspector was happy as long as I adhered to...

Yes that one, it'll reduce your patio doors down to about 1680 maximum. I had a similar problem with mine, though the gap was smaller. I ended up with a wide door and glazed unit. BC might pull you up on the amount of glass you want, ours didn't want more than 25% total wall space, but if you...

BC will probably want SE calcs for the small return and possibly the lack of return on the centre wall so worth a chat with them first. I did something similar (2 storey semi) and BC said they wouldn't need calcs as long as I used 7" RSJ's and minimum 650mm returns.

Try posting this in electrics uk, you might get a response from someone who knows. You can do what you ask (in theory) as long as the load to your fcu doesn't exceed 13amps but you may find the inductive load from your plug-in 'wall lights' in the loft exceeds that. Best to get an electrician to...

What did BC say when they did their mandatory roof inspection? Surely it was obvious at that point that you were going to have this problem and it should have been pointed out. Did use an architect? Did he specify this construction? I assume you are building off a notice as opposed to full plan...

But use primer, not pva under your tiles.

This. Celotex is only a brand name, there's lots of cheaper pir boards available and you can get a good discount if you need a few. Jason

You don't need to satisfy everyone here, only building control.

Thanks for the replies and the advice. I didn't want to shell out on the gear and spend time doing it to find it's not fit for purpose once I've altered it, or I would need additional kit to make it function correctly. But if this is unlikely it seems worth a go. I've ordered 5m of cuttable...

Hi all,could anyone tell me if splitting a 5m roll of 5050 rgb led lights into various different lengths connected with possibly up to 5m of additional cable (10m o/all) is feasible? Would the voltage drop at the ends of the runs,( I was thinking of two runs in parallel?) be significant enough...