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Thanks mapj, that was very helpful.

Thanks guys, I've never done this before but the electrical side of things is not as mysterious as the process of cutting channels into an existing, plastered wall and then covering the wires before plastering over again. From what's been said here and in other threads I would choose to use...

Thanks for your help on this. Now I can go ahead and buy the stuff but I'm a bit confused about the width of chisel. The options for SDS channeling chisels seem to be 25 or 30mm, plus 20mm for cutting behind skirting. Lectrician says he prefers to use 20mm oval tube as it requires a narrower...

Was this a dumb question or just not very interesting?!

I've just finished the first 20m of a 60m floor project. The tiles are 400 x 600 porcelain with a slightly textured surface. I tried to leave as little grout as possible on the surface. I used a damp sponge at least twice while drying and also tried a dry cloth but this didn't seem very...

One of the How to's describes how to make a channel to run cable in and says to use oval conduit and then plaster over. In an attached thread about the difficulty of getting 2.5mm T&E down a conduit it is pointed out that you shouldn't really run two of these cables down a single conduit. That's...

I'm moving our kitchen into another room so have a lot of new wiring to do. By searching the forum here I think I've answered most of my questions - but any corrections gratefully received. The ring main extension will be channelled into the wall bit I plan to run the lighting cable on the...

Thanks for that. I've tried it now and got the hang of it. The gaurd over the wheel makes it difficult to position the tile accurately. I've found that cutting the first 8" or so crouching down at tile level is best. That way I can line up the wheel and my marked line until the tile emerges from...

I've got 60sq m of 400 x 600 porcelain tiles to lay so I treated myself to a cheap disc cutter with water bath from Screwfix. Great value and it does the job but with limitations. There is a single parallel guide which is fine for cuts that are parallel to a tile edge but few of mine are. Is...

My mix was thicker than I prefer my custard. I'll try it thinner next time!

The house we've just moved into has thermostatic radiator valves throughout. More than half of these are fitted to the inlet end of the radiator. Please reasure me that this is wrong. I assume that the valves work by regulating the flow through the radiator so as to maintain an outlet...

I've just used a levelling compound for the first time and didn't do too well at first. The instructions said don't mix more than you can use in 10 minutes which frightened me, so I mixed a small amount - mistake! I managed to level a small patch and by the time I'd mixed and applied a larger...

Thanks for the instant response! No the floor shows no sign of dampness.

I have just lifted carpet from this floor in preparation for laying ceramic tiles. Although this part of the house is over 200 years old I believe the base here was probably put down in 1976. There is a fairly hard, smooth, dark coloured surface on top of an unscreeded base. The surface is 1 -...

OK, so I'll assume Shaggy's assessment is correct. But the surface is quite rough even though it's fairly level and I've only laid tiles on a smooth surface before. Would you add a thin layer of levelling compound just to make it easier to apply the adhesive or whack it straight down?

I think the floor was put down around 1976. Removing the tiles has generally only removed a small amount of the surface so I guess there wasn't anything different on top. What is now the surface is not loose or crumbly although you can loosen it with your heal. Bob

I'm removing some ceramic floor tiles prior to laying some new ones. The old tiles are coming up without too much damage to the surface below but some cracks have been exposed. The concrete seems sound apart from the cracks, and they don't seem to extend further than shown here. Should I do...

I assumed that draining the system and restarting it would be a major exercise, particularly as I've never done it before but BAHCO seems to imply that it's not. Where would I find info on how to do it?

Thanks. I don't really know what sort of system it is except that it's a combi boiler. Presumably I can close off the taps, remove the radiator and worry about the pipes next summer! Bob

I need to remove an existing radiator to install kitchen units. Is there any way of closing off the pipes without draining the system? Bob