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That's a result, Sarah, well done! Sorry, I thought the head would be clean as you'd said that you had replaced it already. Either way, keeping it scrupulously clean (e.g. with liquid kettle de-scaler) is essential if you live in a hard water area. C.

Best source would probably be a scrap radiator... have a look in skips and front gardens etc. :wink: Have you tried a proper plumbers' merchants (not DIY "shed")? Yes, M6 means a diameter of 6mm, but I'm not certain those would fit your rad. C.

Like Dan, I'm confused! Please tell us: (1) What kind of heating system do you have? A combi, or a conventional system with a separate tank, pump and so on? (2) If the latter, does it just have a timer/programmer and pump, and no other electrical bits (other than the boiler itself)...

Not necessarily, they still affect the flow rate through an open TRV, irrespective of where they are :wink:

James, what was wrong with the old pump, exactly? How did you select the new pump? Do you recall what sort the old one was? Has the new pump got several speeds? C.

Annoyingly, almost all digital electronics suffer from glitches and can "lock-up" now again. Think of Freeview boxes and computers. Only if it becomes a regular occurrence do you actually have a genuine fault. C.

Sorry, I know nothing about your boiler or its fault codes, other than the quick glance I had at the manual last night. I still have a nasty suspicion that the boiler's PCB has been fried by having AC mains inadvertantly shoved up part of it that runs at low, DC voltage, due to a wiring error...

The valve's probably dripping from its spindle merely because it's been used after a long period of inactivity. Annoying, but not the cause of your fault, I suspect. Your hot water cylinder will probably be filled from a cold water storage cistern, either a separate unit or sometimes actually...

Horstmann C17 or C27 (1/2 channel) are cheap (under £30) but well made and reliable IMHO. Use former for a combi, latter for non-combis. Downside is that programming is not exactly intuitive, so you'll need to keep the instructions nearby!

Do a forum search, Daniel. This comes up every other week and causes no end of bickering. :D

No expert, but I think the expansion can crack whatever's locking the two bits together. Both bits will expand, of course, but I think the larger part will expand more (differential expansion?). A-level physics was a long time ago.

I agree, probably a mis-wired programmer. Trace out all the wiring (boring but worth it). With HW on, only the boiler's gas valve should be energised. With CH on, both the boiler and pump should be energised. (You can't have CH only with this type of system, the water will heat too.) I...

Differential calculus, the meaning of life, the lot :lol:

Try rubbery washing up gloves to give you a bit of extra grip. Seco's pushing down trick might help too. Have you tried heating them (hairdyer, or water from the kettle)? And carefully run a pin around the periphery (where they meet the gold) to scrape off any scale that's possibly...

Harry, if you link the two wires from your old thermostat together, does the pump run? If so, your diagnosis of a faulty stat was correct. Your old stat had two wires: Live feed (probably red), and switched live (probably black). There was no neutral. But your new stat needs a neutral...

What made you decide that, Dave? If there are no motorised valves, then it can't be fully pumped, can it? Where does the live feed to the pump come from exactly?

I forgot about the inlet filter :oops:

As no-one else has posted, how about a few quesitons for you to get the ball rolling... (1) Did everything definitely work OK before the boiler was moved? (2) When the engineer returned, what was his conclusion? No idea at all? (3) Which board are we talking about? One in the boiler...

I'd be interested to hear what people have to suggest too. My parents had two towel rails plumbed in the same way in their old house (1930s build with 1960s plumbing and newish boiler). They suddenly stopped working well and more than one plumber was unable to help.

Good plan. Let us know the outcome. I suspect that faulty timeswitch that you no longer use, but that's literally just a guess. Immersion heaters take a fair bit of current, so the control gear takes quite a hammering.