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True. I'm no expert on boilers, so your fears may well be justified.

Possibly, but you would need some knowledge of electricity and a multimeter (mains power off, meter set to low Ohms range) to be certain. Good luck :)

No, I would get a proper heating engineer to look at it first. It could save you an absolute fortune. A lot of "really bad" symptoms can be caused by simple faults, and vice versa of course.

Don't you go putting any soldiers in my potable water, please :lol: Especially lead soldiers.

Look for a motorised valve, as 45yearsagasman said. It could be hidden away somewhere out of sight though, of course. Try following all the cables from the programmer (and any associated junction box) to see what they connect to.

You need to find out in case you have to shut off the water in a hurry one day, e.g. if you have a burst pipe! In a house, it's often under the kitchen sink. It sounds like you have a blockage somewhere, maybe in the boiler's heat exchanger, or its inlet filter. I'm afraid you really need...

Thanks, much appreicated.

And me.

Thanks for the update. Is the cold water pressure and flow as good as it's always been? Did you have a similar problem when the weather got colder last year? Is the main stopcock (where the cold water comes into your house) fully open?

What's a WAU, Tony, please?

How do these AGVs work, please? I always assumed that on this kind of system, the rads wouldn't heat up so long as the pump's not running. Thanks.

Absolutely. All the "boost" function does is switch the heating/hot water on for an (extra) hour or two, nothing else. I presume the jumper on the back is set for gravity systems (not that a problem here should cause exactly your described fault). P.S. Instructions for the programmer...

edit :oops:

With electrically heated showers, the water temperature is determined by: (1) How many heating element(s) are switched on. This is the 4-position control. (2) How fast the water's flowing through the heating element, which determines how much time the heating element has to warm it up...

You need to tell us much more! What kind of heating system do you have? Electric? Gas? Do you have a hot water cylinder? C.

Repressurising is quite easy and you can probably do it yourself. It may even get the boiler working for now. Have a look in the FAQ threads at the top of the Plumbing and Central Heating section. But you're absolutely right, it sounds like the boiler is overdue a service. There may well be a...

The pressure should always be about 1Bar, even when the heating's off and cooled down. Sounds like you need to repressurise the system. The pressure should rise a little when warm, but if it goes up too much, it could be that your expansion vessel has lost its pressure and needs pumping up...

Joe, your writing will seem instantly better if you remember to use a capital letter when you write "I" :wink: As Whitespirit66 has pointed out, this kind of little thing is noticed by a lot of people, and first impressions often count when looking for work.

I think OneTap was making a joke, Alex. Think Angus Deayton :wink:

Yes, what a nightmare. Our house was built in 1950 and has an original basin in one of the bedrooms. I liked the design, and it was undamaged, but the cold tap had lost a lot of chrome. I popped along to Wickes and found some taps which really matched the geometrical style of the basin...